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Discussion Starter #1
My 2004 vstar 650 classic has been broken down since October. I finally got everything fixed (its the middle of winter here) and can't seem to get it started. Are there any tricks or tips in getting a cold bike that has sat for a few months started? I don't want to crank it death - I have confirmed there is spark on both cylinders, there is fuel pumping to the carbs, and the battery is brand new. Any thoughts on the right way to get her going? I have had it puff and sputter, a few backfires.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I'm starting to frigging despise this "bullet proof" bike. Still no start. I have spark, I have fuel. Just cranks and cranks. FML....
 

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you could try turning the idle up a half turn.what was the idle set at.do not give it any throttle while trying to start. did you pull your plugs,wet,dry,black ,off white?http://650ccnd.com/gak.htm...i added a link to the gak modification.i see a lot of starting problem with the stock setup but never with pods i think stock is fine when the bike is new but put some miles on and things get dirty.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Looks like its a tow job into the shop and god knows how much in labour to get them to fix it. Adjusted to the right,no luck. Adjusted to the left, no luck. Next step is going to be to burn the frigging thing for the insurance money....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah, I am just so sick and tired of it. Everything seems fine... There is no reason why it won't fire up - I don't even know what to tear apart anymore. I have power, I have spark, I have fuel... I am stumped.
 

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Are all lights working properly? I remember a buddy trying to fire his bike whole day, just happened some loose on his ignition switch which literally his bike is off.
 

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Sounds like could be timing to me. Did you have the engine apart? If yer gettin fuel and spark is it at the right time? Could it be 180 degrees out of time? Just throwin out some suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
All lights are working properly. The engine wasn't apart, so I can't imagine it was that. One of the suggestions I have received was to check the compression and the cam timing in that order. I plan on picking up a compression tester tonight, but what will that result tell me?I realize I need compression for ignition, but how would it "go away"? The bike was running fine one day, dead the next.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So even after my new battery I am back to little to no spark in my rear cylinder. I found this post http://m.delphiforums.com/sgmfa/messages/100694 that indicates if a pickup coil is wired backwards it can give me these symptoms. How do I test to see if he installed it backwards, and if he did how can I fix it? I can't imagine that cutting and resplicing the wires is a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So good news I got it started. Turns out it was the pickup coil wires were reversed. As soon as I reversed them I was good to go. My only problem it seems now is that I can't seem to get off the choke. I ran it last night for like 30 min to fully warm up. Every time I tried to push the choke back in it would die. I am assuming it is from me screwing around with the idle adjuster screw earlier on. When I turn that screw though it seems to just be a screw inside a small rubber hose - anyone know how it works? When I turn it I don't seem to get a lot of reaction at all.
 

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So good news I got it started. Turns out it was the pickup coil wires were reversed. As soon as I reversed them I was good to go. My only problem it seems now is that I can't seem to get off the choke. I ran it last night for like 30 min to fully warm up. Every time I tried to push the choke back in it would die. I am assuming it is from me screwing around with the idle adjuster screw earlier on. When I turn that screw though it seems to just be a screw inside a small rubber hose - anyone know how it works? When I turn it I don't seem to get a lot of reaction at all.
it only moves the butterflies for more/less air
 

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The screw turns a screw at the carb, to raise or lower the idle speed. If you are somewhat mechanical minded, remove the gas tank. Then remove the 4 Phillip's screws from each carb bowl. They will be facing the left side and are very easy to remove. Then find the little skinny tube(jet) toward the left front of the carb inside the bowl. With a small flat screwdriver remove the jet from each carb, and clean. Use a small piece of wire to clean the hole inside the jet and some carb cleaner. Reverse the procedure to return everything to how it was, and run it.
 

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those bowl screws are JIS screws you'll need need to file the tip of a phillips screw driver down a bit for a good fit or you'll strip the heads . a lot guys replace em with stainless allen screws because they're brass and are easily stripped. if they strip you'll be removing carbs to get vicegrips on em.
 

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Funny, I have removed several of those bowls, and never had any problems. I did on a couple of the screws, had to tap the screwdriver with a small hammer, to get the screws to break loose, other than that, no problems
.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for the tips guys. I don't anticipate doing any carb rebuilding with my sausage fingers any time soon - I can just see springs flying!
 
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