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Discussion Starter #1
Well, New Battery, new R/R and now to replace the stator. I found a link someone posted on how to go through the charging system with a volt meter and sure enough the stator tested to infinity on the ohm test. If you don't know, that's bad! I will post how this project goes in case anyone else has to do this little project.
 

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Well, New Battery, new R/R and now to replace the stator. I found a link someone posted on how to go through the charging system with a volt meter and sure enough the stator tested to infinity on the ohm test. If you don't know, that's bad! I will post how this project goes in case anyone else has to do this little project.
personally i would stick to an oem stator, they look like the epoxy insulation is way better than aftermarket, if you can, show a picture of the cooked coil if it's really obvious
 

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just to be sure, you did touch the leads on the ohm meter together to make sure it read 0 ohms?

Sometimes people get a meter with a bad or loose probe, check the battery: Hmmmm zero volts, completely dead.

putting the DVM on ohms and touching the leads together is a good way to test the probes.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
just to be sure, you did touch the leads on the ohm meter together to make sure it read 0 ohms?

Sometimes people get a meter with a bad or loose probe, check the battery: Hmmmm zero volts, completely dead.

putting the DVM on ohms and touching the leads together is a good way to test the probes.
Yes, I always check by touching the leads together if for no other reason to make sure the battery in the meter is still good. This is the information that I found to trouble shoot the charging system
Troubleshooting the Road Star Charging System | RoadStarMagazine.com
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm going to remove the stator cover tomorrow. New stator to be here on the 6th. Is there a good online store I could order a new gasket from?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm going to remove the stator cover tomorrow. New stator to be here on the 6th. Is there a good online store I could order a new gasket from?
I found Motosport.com which sells OEM parts. They have exploded views of every part of the bike, so it's easy to find the part (stator gasket) you need. Also ordered a new OEM starter solenoid from them, solenoid cost a little over $60 with shipping cost. The cheap after market solenoids had too many bad reviews, but that's what you can expect for a part that only cost $6.00.
Because I have to drain the oil to install the stator I'm going to go ahead and do a complete oil change. What are some good oils to use beside Yamalube?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Let's have a moment of silence for the passing of Al Jones's STATOR. It was raised a good stator. Raised to be a hard worker and even harder party-er. Well it did both at the same time to its own detriment.

It died too young, It was just 18 years old. It's so sad that it did not live to enjoy this summer with me. RIP
 

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In the couple years Ive been on this forum I think you are the first person to change a stator on a Vstar. Some bikes are known for stator issues (like '70s goldwings) and its a full engine pull to replace them.

The truth about motor oil is the generic oil they sell at walmart: 10W40, with no additives (the bottom half of the SAE logo empty) meets all the requirements for your motorcycle and warranty.

If you are going to race the bike on the track, or beat the piss out of it, then get the most expensive synthetic oil you can find.

If you are somewhere in between and want the engine to last for 200,000 miles, long after the rest of the bike is totally worn out - get something in between.

But seriously: the bike requires 20W40 with the SF (I think) rating (check your owners manual) with no mileage enhancement additives (they will make your clutch slip).

The difference between car oil and motorcycle oil, is they leave the additives OUT of the "motorcycle oil" and then charge you $2 more per quart.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
In the couple years Ive been on this forum I think you are the first person to change a stator on a Vstar. Some bikes are known for stator issues (like '70s goldwings) and its a full engine pull to replace them.

The truth about motor oil is the generic oil they sell at walmart: 10W40, with no additives (the bottom half of the SAE logo empty) meets all the requirements for your motorcycle and warranty.

If you are going to race the bike on the track, or beat the piss out of it, then get the most expensive synthetic oil you can find.

If you are somewhere in between and want the engine to last for 200,000 miles, long after the rest of the bike is totally worn out - get something in between.

But seriously: the bike requires 10W40 with the SF (I think) rating (check your owners manual) with no mileage enhancement additives (they will make your clutch slip).

The difference between car oil and motorcycle oil, is they leave the additives OUT of the "motorcycle oil" and then charge you $2 more per quart.
Good to know about the oil, thanks. Service manual calls for SAE 20W40 SE. I just want oil that will do the job and not cause the clutch to slip, I ride pretty easy, no fast pull aways and I don't wind it tight before I shift. The reason I'm going to replace the stator is because when I tested the battery while the motor was running there was a steady drop of the voltage and when I increased the rpm the drop continued. I've replaced the old R/R because it had cracks on the backside that looks like some kind of epoxy. after that still no voltage going to the battery. The battery does not go down in voltage if the bike is left sitting for a week or so.Believe me I do not want to replace the stator, but at this point everything is pointing at it being the problem. While I'm at it I'm going to replace the starter solenoid with an OEM one. The one in it reads, made in Japan, guessing it's also a OEM. Main thing is just want to get the bike going so I can get some riding in before it's time to put it away again.
 

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sounds like a good plan, as long as you are tearing into it, some preventive measures will pay off in the long run.

What is your riding season there? Here in upstate NY I usually start riding in April, and go thru the end of November.

I have a 3 layer textile jacket, a couple different gloves for summer and below 40F, I wear two pairs of blue jeans (one is two inches larger in the waist than the other), and a cover over my neck and lower face.

Having the windshield on the bike helps a lot when its below 50F. I manage to commute to work about 100 days a year (out of about 220 work days). Have hit 50% a few years.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
sounds like a good plan, as long as you are tearing into it, some preventive measures will pay off in the long run.

What is your riding season there? Here in upstate NY I usually start riding in April, and go thru the end of November.

I have a 3 layer textile jacket, a couple different gloves for summer and below 40F, I wear two pairs of blue jeans (one is two inches larger in the waist than the other), and a cover over my neck and lower face.

Having the windshield on the bike helps a lot when its below 50F. I manage to commute to work about 100 days a year (out of about 220 work days). Have hit 50% a few years.
The riding season is about the same here. This past April we got a lot of snow so May was really the start of the scooter season. I would really like to be out now, but all this work to do on the bike it's going to take me about 3 or four days with all the other stuff I normally do. I do enjoy wrenching on my bike though, so it's not all bad. Also installing a speedoDRD y1 to calibrate my speedo, as my friend put a rear sprocket on the bike for better acceleration when 2up. So the speedo is off 5 miles per hour up to about 60 and above that it my be off even more.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update on Dead Stator

Well, New Battery, new R/R and now to replace the stator. I found a link someone posted on how to go through the charging system with a volt meter and sure enough the stator tested to infinity on the ohm test. If you don't know, that's bad! I will post how this project goes in case anyone else has to do this little project.
Well the stator was bad! That is the good news. There are 6 bolts that hold the gear wheel in place behind the magnet, the stator nests into the magnet and the magnet and and gear wheel spin. When I opened it up I noticed right away that all of the coils on the stator had damage. What I found that caused the damage was the 6 bolts that hold the gear wheel in place were all only finger tight, did I just say tight? None of them were tight! One had backed out so far it was hitting the stator coils until it snapped off. At this point I'm not sure what I'm going to do. I am going to check and see what it will cost to buy the damaged parts. The magnet has a divot in it where the bolt was rubbing. So I'm guessing there is metal shavings in the oil and throughout the motor. While I'm checking on the price of the damaged parts I would love to hear what all my friends here at StarBike Forums have to say and suggest. I'm really hoping that I can still save the motor and do some riding before the season is over.

Al
 

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How long had metal shavings been 'running thru' the engine?
The filter is supposed to catch items such as that. I guess the "damage" would be how big the shavings are and where is the cycle of oil the stator is.

FINGERS CROSSED!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Cost of parts

How long had metal shavings been 'running thru' the engine?
The filter is supposed to catch items such as that. I guess the "damage" would be how big the shavings are and where is the cycle of oil the stator is.

FINGERS CROSSED!
Cost to replace damage parts is only $100 for used parts, so that's what I've ordered. Should have the parts here Friday, until then I will finish the tear-down. I have to figure out a way to get the Rotor and flywheel off without the special tool that holds the rotor while you break the bolt lose. I will drain the oil and put in fresh oil and filter after the repair, then run it about 200 miles and change the oil and filter again. Anyone care to chime in, feel free.

Thanks

Al Jones
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Progress Update #1

All parts are in. But finding a 16mm X 1.5 pitch bolt (tool) to remove the stator rotor has been maddening to say the least. I even tried FastenAll and they couldn't help. I finally found one on the lazyweb for $22.50 so it is now ordered and will take a week to get here. So now it's just wait. Does anyone know how much wattage the stator should put out. The aftermarket (CCPOS) that I ordered does not have as much wire as the one that failed due to the bolt that sheared off the starter clutch assembly. I would like to order a OEM stator, but at $300.00 it's a hard pill to swallow.

Thanks,

Al Jones
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Progress Update #2

The used Stator Roter, starter clutch and flywheel that I ordered arrived and outside of needing a good wipe down the parts are in excellent condition. So took a chance and saved $500.00 over buying new. Can't say the same for the stator that I bought. The stator was $33.00.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Progress Update #3

I'm still waiting on the Stator puller tool (Black Bolt) to arrive and on a chance while in Menards today I found a Bolt that was 16mm with 1.5 pitch so I thought what the hell and bought it. As I sat down to try this bolt, I thought well this is not a hardened bolt and this could go bad. I then thought nothing else in this assembly was tight so give it a go. Used my air gun and one quick pull of the trigger and it was off. Someone must have put this all together finger tight on Friday and called in sick on Monday and someone else finished the job not knowing that nothing had be pulled to torque specs. The bolt holes in the clutch assembly were all oval shaped from all 6 bolts being lose. Any who, I'm getting ready to reassemble. I'm going to use the CCPOS stator and if it fails I'll redo this with a OEM. The job is not a hard, especially if you are only doing a stator install. This failed because someone did not do the job right, that's why I do everything I can myself. The stator that was installed looks to be a high output compared to the one I'm going to use. I don't run any extra electrical accessories so maybe it will be okay. I'll post another Update when this is all back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Not an update, but worth sharing

To hold the stator rotor from moving while I torqued the bolt that holds the rotor on, I came up with this idea. They make a special too to hold the rotor and I'm not buying one, so I decided to try my oil filter wrench. It's the type that has a square tube with a strap laced through it. I put that around the rotor and with some effort it worked. That bolt had to be torqued to 115 ft. lbs. If this had not worked, I was going to try using a wedge between the rotor and the engine case just to the left of the rotor. You can see how I did this in the photo.

Cheers,

Al Jones
 

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