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Discussion Starter #1
My bike has 29000 miles and recently developed a vibration that intensifies with increased rpms. It does it in neutral stationary and in motion while driving. I start to notice it around 2300 rpms and it gets real bad around 3000 and up. The local dealer basically says he will bill me a fortune taking the bike apart to find it. Aside from the vibration the bike seems to run fine and no check engine light. Any ideas? Thanks!
 

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Have you checked the motor mount bolts? Years ago I had a motor mount bolt back off, just one, and motor would start to shake and certain RPMs. Keep us informed.
 

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does this bike have one of the 1600 or 1700 engines that can have the final drive pulley bolt/nut come loose?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Someone suggested this to me at a dealer. Would the fact that it vibrates in neutral as well rule a loose front drive pulley out?
 

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Our definition of "real bad" may be different. Where is the vibration? From the engine, the handlebars or ? If you're going to look into it yourself it may be as simple as changing the oil to a different weight and making sure it's topped off. Or possibly something is seriously loose, so I'd check steering, pulleys, floorboards and such. If you can't solve the problem, I would consider finding another shop to diagnose the problem. It could be a number of issues, but a good mechanic should be able to figure the probable issue by riding it. There are so may crappy shops and dealer mechanics out there, so it may take a bit to find one with the right vibe. Good luck!
Here are a few tips.

https://www.writteninchrome.com/view-post/Quick-Tips-to-Reduce-Motorcycle-Vibrations-for-Riders
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Our definition of "real bad" may be different. Where is the vibration? From the engine, the handlebars or ? If you're going to look into it yourself it may be as simple as changing the oil to a different weight and making sure it's topped off. Or possibly something is seriously loose, so I'd check steering, pulleys, floorboards and such. If you can't solve the problem, I would consider finding another shop to diagnose the problem. It could be a number of issues, but a good mechanic should be able to figure the probable issue by riding it. There are so may crappy shops and dealer mechanics out there, so it may take a bit to find one with the right vibe. Good luck!
Here are a few tips.

https://www.writteninchrome.com/view-post/Quick-Tips-to-Reduce-Motorcycle-Vibrations-for-Riders
Hi there. Thanks for the tips. What I meant was the bike had smooth power and no noticeably concerning vibrations before and now it is making it to where I don’t even want to ride it because the vibration is so uncomfortable. I just changed the oil and followed the correct procedures for doing so. I also checked that it was topped off. Not sure if maybe I should switch to a synthetic? I guess I can start checking every single bolt one by one to make sure nothing is loose.

Any possibility there is a bushing that could have gone bad on a motor mount, and even though it seems tight it is causing vibration? That’s assuming they aren’t solid mounts. Excuse my limited knowledge.

My main worry is that maybe something is wrong internally and by vibrating my bike is trying to tell me something is wrong and that I won’t be able to fix it before it’s too late and I need an engine rebuild.

I have read in other threads that out of adjustment valves can cause this or out of sync throttle bodies, some have said change the spark plugs and wires, clean the injectors and tps. If anyone can rule out any of these before I just start throwing a ton of money fixing things that aren’t broken I would appreciate it a ton!

Thanks to everyone chiming In so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Also another potential fix for motor vibration was shimming motor mounts. It was on a Harley though.


Update***

I started her up today and tried to listen at idle and I heard a slight ticking noise coming from the rear cylinder towards the top of it on the right hand side of the bike. I did not hear this when I listened closely to the front cylinder. Almost like valves making noise? I'm not certain what it is that I'm hearing. Does anyone know what this is? I have a feeling it is the source of my troubles.
 

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when is the last time the bike had a valve adjustment? your bike may not have another scheduled one until 32K miles (if it has kept regularly scheduled maintenance), but it sounds like you should go ahead and get it now. that could be causing both the ticking and extra vibration. you may have found it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Honestly I have no idea. I just bought the bike in February and have only put about 2k miles on it so far. I have found a detailed guide on how to adjust the valves DIY in the link below. I have always been pretty good with working on things myself as long as I have a good guide to follow, but I have never done this before. I also have trust issues with shops, as I have had many issues with incompetent mechanics doing things incorrectly and I know if it's something I can do in my garage myself, I would like to. That way I know it gets done properly and no corners get cut. I am a stickler for doing things exactly the right way as much as I can help it. I'm pretty good with most things on cars and replacing anything mechanical but my expertise is limited when it comes to engine work, but I have the confidence to try anything unless anyone thinks this is absolutely a job to be done by a shop.

Any opinions on doing this myself?




https://linerwiki.com/liner/Roadliner_Valve_Adjustment.pdf
 

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My grandfather use to tell me "If it was made on this planet, you can fix it!"

your bike has hydraulic lifters but two valves share a common lifter, and two sets in each head.

What can happen is one valve can get a bit off from the other, then the lifter will self adjust to one making it perfect and the other will be loose and tick, and not open as far as it should.

Im still at a loss to how that could make the engine vibrate, since you say it seems to be running ok except for the vibration? If the valves were tight and it was misfiring, or the carbs/injectors were gummed up and the bike was running like crap on a stick, then I would expect it to run pretty rough.

But if you really think its running normally, that points to something having come loose, or fallen off a part that was symmetrical and balanced. Think of your wash machine on spin cycle. If something fell out of the clutch assembly (a bolt, or part of a clutch disk sheared off), if any other hardware backed off inside the engine, then the parts would no longer be symetrical, and the engine would shake like your washer on spin cycle with one pillow going round and round...

I think that may be what your mechanic was saying, if the bike runs ok but the engine is shaking, they may have to tear it apart to see what has come loose in there.

You could try running a carb/injector cleaner thru in your gas tank - but again: if the bike is not running rough I dont know if that would fix anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
By running okay I mean it starts right up no problem and idles normally, and I can ride it. I may have lost power I'm not too sure because I haven't really wanted to lay into it to find out. I don't notice anything is wrong until the rpms go up.

Are you saying vibration is not a symptom of valves being out of adjustment?

Would throttle bodies being out of sync or spark plugs that need to be replaced cause this? Or are you thinking something inside the engine is messed up and it needs a rebuild? That is what I'm terrified of...
 

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anything that causes the engine to misfire will make it vibrate

picture the two pistons pumping together with equal force, each on opposite revolutions

if one is pushing harder than the other, or if one drops out completely because the plug is fouled or the valves are not closing all the way, then yes, the engine will shake and vibrate.

If you are not sure about the maintenance history of the bike, replacing the plugs, checking the air cleaner to make sure its white would be the easy steps. Running some Seafoam thru the gas tank would also be a good way to clean the jets/injectors,

Do that first - it never hurts to do a basic tune up and SeaFoam flush, and its about $15 for the plugs and Seafoam, and maybe another $25 if you have to replace a grey air filter. If that clears it up you are good.

If not checking adjusting the valves would be next. That will take about 3 hours if you do it yourself, and you will want to get new gaskets for the tappet covers. You can usually re-use the gaskets, but if they ooze oil after you put them back on, its another 3 hours to tear it all apart again and replace them.

After you have checked/adjusted the valves, then you can synch the carbs. I may be getting lost in the threads here, I think your bike has fuel injection - I dont know if the throttle bodies need to be synched - but you have to make sure the valves are correct first, because the valves will change the flow thru the intake if they are not to spec.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Awesome thank you this is very helpful!

Yes it is fuel injected. I will give these a shot. Do I need to change the wires too or just plugs?

Anyone know what the spark gap should be?
 

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Raider plugs and gap but I believe we have the same engine.
NGK/DPR 8EA-9
0.8-0.9mm (0.031 - 0.035 in.)
 

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I wouldnt change the plug wires unless they look all cracked and crappy

you can find the owners manual online as a free PDF download - all the tune up specs and other fascinating info on your bike is in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks! It looks like you are right they are the same.

Id like to get a repair manual. Does anyone have any good suggestions on where to get it? I feel like there are a lot of shoddy looking websites for cheap repair manuals and I'm not sure if they are scams or what.

My local dealer said it would be $100 to order one from Yamaha. Ill do that if I have to but figured I'd check with you guys.

Thanks everyone!
 

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the service manual for the VStar 650 is on line as a free download - someone scanned it into PDF format and its on several websites

The service manual for your bike might also be out there - the official manual from Yamaha. The owners manual is definitely free online - they give them out free with the bike, so they have no value to yamaha.

$100 is crazy. The guy I bought my used 650 from had the service manual on a CD, also a pdf file, and I think its the original file (not a scanned copy). Unless you are rebuilding your engine you probably wont need a printed copy.
 
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