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1998 Yamaha V Star 650 classic
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks. I have a 1998 Yamaha V Star 650 classic. I’ve had it for a year and I enjoy the bike. When I changed the oil a few months back I’d notice an oil smear to the left of the oil cover. Today I took the oil cover off, put a new filter on and started tightening the bolts to spec.
When I got to the long bolt I felt a snap. I pulled the bolt out and I could tell I broke the threads inside.
my question is: can I tap new threads without worrying about going through the housing? Should I remove the crank housing when I tap the threads? Any suggestions would be wonderful. Thank you for the help
97861
 

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2005 V-Star 1100 Classic
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1,204 Posts
Bummer.

I was surprised when you said you felt a snap. Threads pulled out don't usually snap. You just feel a slackening of the torque, and a sinking feeling in your stomach. Anyway, lets assume you have stripped threads and not a broken bolt.

Heli-coil for sure. But working down in a counterbore complicates the installation. I think I would pull the cover, just to make sure you get a successful heli-coil install. It's kind of a one time option, and if you screw up the drilling and tapping you are pretty much SOL. It looks like that cover pops off without too much disassembly. This isn't the time to try and get away with the bare minimum effort.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
I’d like to thank y’all for the quick responses. It’s nice to know there are people willing to give sound advice. These pictures give a good idea of how bad it is. Ha ha!
I was going to tap it but I’d have to increase bolt size from a 5 to 6 mm. I think the idea of a heli coil is the best option and thank you for the idea. Since the depth is approximately 2 inches I think it would be safer to pull the cover that way I know the heli is seated all the way. When I put the heli in I have to break the end off but how the heck do I get it out? Do I need to get a bigger sized bolt or the same size. Either way I think it’d be best to use a new bolt. I might be long winded sometimes.
97890
97891
 

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Super Moderator "Loose Nut"
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I use a small magnet to get the tab out. This might help.

 
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2011 Yamaha VStar 650
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You can also use compressed air to remove the tang from the hole after you are done. Just make sure that you retrieve the piece if you use this method - I'd hate for it to end up somewhere you don't want it.
 
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1998 Yamaha V Star 650 classic
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Discussion Starter #9
I use a small magnet to get the tab out. This might help.

Ah ha. Thanks. If I have to drill out the threads and tap I need to go one metric size up? I’m guessing compressed air would help get the shavings out.
 

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1998 Yamaha V Star 650 classic
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Discussion Starter #10
You can also use compressed air to remove the tang from the hole after you are done. Just make sure that you retrieve the piece if you use this method - I'd hate for it to end up somewhere you don't want it.
If the tang is seated all the way in the back would an awl punch be able to break the tang off? Thank you for the help
 

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If the tang is seated all the way in the back would an awl punch be able to break the tang off? Thank you for the help
Yes, or just hit insert tool with hammer as video shows. I've actually have a magnetic screw driver I use to get tang out.
 
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You don't go up in size, you are replacing the same size in the hole. You are removing the old thread, using the tap for the new threads ( helicoil) to follow.
 

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2005 V-Star 1100 Classic
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The tap comes with the kit. Best just get it that way. You can buy the inserts alone, but that's more for repetitive jobs. Get the one with the tap.

If you are concerned about the tang, you can break it off first, and then use a bolt with a nut jammed on it to drive the insert into place.
 
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If treading into solid hole that doesn't go all the way thru and I know there is plenty of dead space after the bolt is tightened I've left the tab in the hole. Yes, I know you shouldn't, but never caused an issue. Another truck is a little grease on end of insertion tool, when you break tab off it sticks to tool. But in the past, my magnetic screw driver worked the best. If you just buy the kit you will good to go. I didn't double check the size but you said 5mm.


97909
 
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2011 Yamaha VStar 650
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Typically, you will not aim to bottom out the helicoil in the hole. Normal installation is to wind it in until it is a thread or so below the hole entry and then break off the tang. Before I stalling the helicoil, ensure the hole is clean and free of debris. It may aid installation to lube the hole up a little with some oil.
 

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1998 Yamaha V Star 650 classic
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Discussion Starter #16
Yes, or just hit insert tool with hammer as video shows. I've actually have a magnetic screw driver I use to get tang out.
Got it. Since I’m new here to the forum is it customary to show pics when I get it done. Lol
 

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Got it. Since I’m new here to the forum is it customary to show pics when I get it done. Lol
Absolutely. In fact, if you think about it take pictures at each step. That way if someone in the future asks about thread repair and dose a site search it will bring this thread up. It's one way to build a data base within the site. Now saying that, I'm super shy about posting videos, pictures or links. 🤥🤥
 
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1998 Yamaha V Star 650 classic
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Discussion Starter #18
UPDATE: I decided to take the cover off, and I’m glad I did. A $16 gasket is a lot cheaper than a new crank. The retaining bolts and nuts for the exhaust were almost completely rusted on and so were the mounting bolts. PB Blaster loosened them up. Since my cycle is 20+ years old I figured what the hell let’s clean it up. For future reference make a template so you know where each bolt goes when it’s reassembled. It’s also a good idea to know where the two springs go on the brake assembly.
97960
Now I’m just waiting on the new crankcase gasket and new exhaust gaskets.
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97959
 

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Wow. $8.99 for a heli coil. I priced one last summer when one of my riser bolts pulled an old heli coil out. It was over $100. New risers were cheaper.
 
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