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Discussion Starter #1
Got a McHitch no bolts included it was used, got it to go on but needed the longer bolts that came with a new unit. Took two of the shorter bolts with me one back bolt for the saddle bags and then the next one forward incase they were different lengths. Got new longer bolts. Was lining everything up and jiggling things inplace, got the bolts to get pushed all the way in. Started tightening things and front ones were a little hard but it was just an allen wrench, just thought they were new and sticky were dirt is roaming. got the front two tight and the back two were not as tight. Then the bolt under the fender started turning, I am thinking cross threaded but how???? So I pulled the front one it came out okay. Went to look at the back one again okay so for a ride today lets get three tightened. Working on the last back one the other side started spinning. under the fender. WTF WTF. So pulled one front one. WRONG THREADS, THANKS HARDWARE GUY!!!!!! Now what and how to get the two bolts out and the bolts under the fender? Should I go to court? GGGGRRR Thanks for suggestions. My ability wasn't tested here it was the hardware guy. So any suggestions.
 

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I'd really and truly like to offer some brilliant solution, but quite frankly you lost me with "sticky were dirt is roaming".
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the nuts under the rear fender

Just thought it was some dirt in them making them tighter. So the back two nuts holding the back rest and the bags are spinning and the next one forward that holds the front of the back rest is maybe stcuk and won't come undone on one side only. I got one of the wrong thread ones out
 

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So as a cliffs notes, you forced some bolts with the wrong thread into someplace they weren't intended to go. Did you strip the bolts, or the threaded holes?

Always, always, always...if it isn't threading easily, check to make sure its the right size and pitch.
 

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Well, as long as you have somebody else to blame, but most people would know if you can't thread several turns with your fingers then you must assume the bolt size is wrong or the thread pitch is incorrect. Sorry, I'm not going to condem the alleged hardware guy.

I think all you can do now is drill out and tap for the next size bigger bolt. But please don't blame me if that doesn't work out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
finger tight to start through

bag frame, hitch frame, three washers for the quick connect backrest the fender and then the bolt needs way more pressure than putting on the tag. It started and went four turns then spun the under fender nuts. The front set went tight with the wrong threads. I two foot break over and cheater I did not have it was an allen wrench 5 inches long.
I took two of the bolts to the store with me, kind of thought he might know his hardware.
Will check and get the drill and tap. I may try and get the wrong ones out and fix that.
Just wanted help not holier than thou!!

Thanks
 

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hey man....s**t happens....try your best to get em out with further chewing up....then tap new threads...one thing is to consider is make sure you have plenty of working space to do all this...if some parts need to come off to do it, then do so.....you don't want to frustrate yourself again.....

breath in..breath out...breath in...br...........
 

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Discussion Starter #14
He did at least give me the right bolts and the tap so I will let you how clamping my nuts work,
How do the nuts under the fender get held in place on a good fender? Clamps, welded, pressure???? Thanks
 

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If you can wait one more day, I will look at my Stratoliner/Roadliner repair manual and let you know.

It might be wise to hold off before you drill out and tap anything for now, I might have another solution, but would like to look at the repair manual first.
 

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He did at least give me the right bolts and the tap so I will let you how clamping my nuts work,
How do the nuts under the fender get held in place on a good fender? Clamps, welded, pressure???? Thanks
Looking at my service manual, section 4-23 diagram, it appears the nuts are probably welded in place. No other subassembly is shown, nor a removal process. I suppose it's possible they use an adhesive bond, but I'm about 90% sure it's a weld process.

I think you're tapped in the head! :D
Entirely possible, but I'll never say die:)
 

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Looking at my service manual, section 4-23 diagram, it appears the nuts are probably welded in place. No other subassembly is shown, nor a removal process. I suppose it's possible they use an adhesive bond, but I'm about 90% sure it's a weld process.
I concur, assuming you're not looking in the manual that is specific to only red bikes. I heard in the red bike manual everything is welded,,,valves welded shut, crankshaft is welded to the engine casing, hell even the wheels are welded and can't roll. :D
 

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Hey Rocknroll, for the tap you just bought, are you planning to just chase the buggered-up threads and retry using new bolts? If "yes" then I don't think you can torque the bolts to the specified values. No way are the cleaned up threads going to be even half as strong as before.

My thought was to chase the tap thru the threads but if you have room under the fender, add an additional locking nut to get back the holding power you lost.
 

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I heard in the red bike manual everything is welded,,,valves welded shut, crankshaft is welded to the engine casing, hell even the wheels are welded and can't roll. :D
One of the penalties for having a bike that has to weather the thermal thicket for exceeding Mach 1.:(

Blue bikes have the same problem, only for them it's a case of everything being frozen or corroded from disuse... (or even dat use...:D:D:D)
 
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