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Discussion Starter #1
Hi To All;

I need to change out my rear tire (still has stock Dunlop D404) as it's pretty well worn.

I found a crazy deal at a motorcycle shop the other day (final sale - old stock) on a Bridegstone Exedra stock size 170/80/15 so I bought it. When I got it home I realized that the Dunlop is a tubeless tire and the one i bought is a tube-type tire.

my bike is a 2007 V star classic with mag/alloy wheels (not spokes) I also notice that it has a metal valve stem that is angled.

Will this tube-type tire work? obviously with an inner tube? Has anyone put a tube type tire on a V star classic with mag wheels?

Thanks
 

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Didn't used to be , but what I hear now , it's ok. I had trouble a couple years ago in Kansas trying to get home to IN, had to go with a tube,it went well, no problem, but I changed it out as soon as I got home(just my thinkin on it:eek:) I run an 1100 Silverado, and Metz. Some folks don't like em, I do.
 

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angled valve stem

you can remove the angled valve stem from the wheel and use a tube with the same angled valve stem. should work fine.
 

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If we are talking the same thing here, in my case, I had to take the 90 valve stem off (the shop guy) and use the tube stem till I got changed back to tubeless, and went with the 90 again.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Is there any disadvantage to running a tube on a rim designed for a tubeless tire?

Is it any more difficult or easier to install (although I wont be doing it, I don't want the shop guy to get pissed at me!)?

Also I have a decent motorcycle lift and was contemplating removing the rear wheel and taking it to the shop to save an hours labor charge ($75 +). Has anyone removed the rear wheel on the 1100 classic - is it fairly easy or challenging and did you have to remove the rear fender? (never removed a rear wheel on a shaft driven bike before - but have done it on many chain driven bikes).

Thanks again
 

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No not at all. The basic difference between A tubeless and tube tire is a membrane in the tubeless. The size is the same although the construction can vary from one manufacturer to the other. Also while you are at this point it would be a good idea to have your drive shaft serviced. You should do this every time you change your back tire.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the info' so far - so I guess the tire will work (with a tube).

Has anyone taken their rear wheel off themselves (V star 1100) how easy/hard was it to do? I'm mechanically inclined but not gifted or experienced! I have a manual and a bike lift, OR should I just stop being cheap and leave it to a professional?

In the manual it says you have to use 2 different types of grease: "molybdenum disulfied" and litheum grease. Will the litheum grease work OK in place of the moly#$%%^ grease on the driveshaft splines?
 

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Thanks for all the info' so far - so I guess the tire will work (with a tube).

Has anyone taken their rear wheel off themselves (V star 1100) how easy/hard was it to do? I'm mechanically inclined but not gifted or experienced! I have a manual and a bike lift, OR should I just stop being cheap and leave it to a professional?

In the manual it says you have to use 2 different types of grease: "molybdenum disulfied" and litheum grease. Will the litheum grease work OK in place of the moly#$%%^ grease on the driveshaft splines?
It is a bit of a job, but if you are mechanically inclined as you say, You can whiss through the job, no sweat, just some effort. Yes, you can save some bucks(big) If you have the time. They do say use the moly on the splines. No pro here at all, but know what can be done if you want:cool:. It ain't as tough as some believe.
 

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In the manual it says you have to use 2 different types of grease: "molybdenum disulfied" and litheum grease. Will the litheum grease work OK in place of the moly#$%%^ grease on the driveshaft splines?
NO lithium is a soap and is used in grease to thicken it and is only good to about 350 deg before the grease has had it. Molybdenum is a lubricating metal that is good to 650 deg. follow your Manual.
 

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