Directions
AIS Removal
Make sure you check with your state laws regarding emissions devices. I am not responsible if you do not pass your smog/emissions test.
I do not take credit for any of this. I received all my ideas from other sites and posts. I placed a link to their page when I used their ideas. I want to give credit where it is due. I wanted to get all the info I found in one place. I also wanted to tell you what to do should things go wrong.
What you need:
1. Long screwdriver
2. 5 lb sledge hammer
3. Vice grips
4. 7/16 threaded rod (3 feet or so.)
5. Pipe nipple
6. Nuts and washers to fit the rod.
7. (2) .45 Caliber shells
8. High temp RTV Gasket sealer
I have a Vstar 650 (2005) and last year converted it to a bobber. At the time I put on Vance and Hines Cruisers and received a noticeable popping on de-acceleration. I re-jetted the carb and had some improvement.
My friend always complained about the look of the AIS. He is the one that got me started on this project. Once it was removed, the popping was gone. I cannot speak for all bikes or applications, but this worked for me.
There are several articles on the web on how to do this. I have placed the links to them below.
Here is what I did:
1. Remove the system itself. Here is a good page with pictures for you to follow:
http://www.stargis.net/webslinger/AIS.htm
2. The real issue is the elbows that are stuck in the side of the cylinder heads. There is one in the front head by the horn. The other is in the back by the choke knob. Some people put compression fitting over them and paint them black. I did not want to do that. The thought of having some useless metal protruding from the heads would bother me. They had to go.
3. The front one I removed by hitting the part of the elbow with a hammer. I used a screwdriver to get in there and just knocked it back and forth. You have to hit the part that is not sticking into the bike itself. Once it was loose it came out fairly easily.
http://www.stargis.net/webslinger/Docs/FrontAISspigotremoval.pdf
4. If you want to be super safe, use the homemade slide hammer to yank this one as well (see #6.)
5. The rear was the hard one. I got lazy and thought I could work this one back and forth as well. I did recall that I read someone had success doing it this way. DO NOT DO IT. I ended up breaking off the pipe inside the hole. Now I had a piece of AIS tube inside the hole. BAD-BAD. Ironically the rear looks like the easiest one to remove. It is a straight shot in there and there are no forks in the way (like the front.)
6. Put together a cheap slide hammer with the parts listed above (see pic.) The parts are less than $8 if you already have the vice grips (and if you don’t have grips than you cannot be helped.”
7. Grab the end if the elbow with the grips and pull straight back. The plug should come right out.
8. What I ended up doing (after much trial and error) was this. I had to bite the bullet and accept that the tube was not coming out. I did not want to use any means to remove it that would cause metal shavings to go into the head. I bought a 3/8 self tapping bolt from the hardware store. Make sure it is not to long. I do not recall the size but I believe it was ¾ inch (make sure you check first if you made this mistake too.)
9. Covered bolt in RTV high temp gasket. Threaded in with washer (see pic.)
10. Front was plugged by .45 shell. Just a little gasket sealer (RTV again) and it taps in easy with a dowel.
11. All done, no popping and a much cleaner look.
The pics are slider hammer, front plug/bullet shell, rear plug/bolt.
AIS
VSTAR_650_MAIN_MAN.pdf (application/pdf Object)
V Star 650 AIS Removal | Zia Rider Blog
FrontAISspigotremoval.pdf (application/pdf Object)
Webslinger
VSTAR Custom
Message Board - V-Star 650 AIS Removal
If you have stock pipes with cats, DO NOT DISABLE OR REMOVE THE AIS!!!!! If you or the PO have changed out the pipes then go for it 
