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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I say this because I just removed mine and learned the hard way. I am now a self professed AIS master mechanic. If you need any help or advice on the 650 AIS let me know. I researched this for a week before picking up the wrench (I mean hammer.) I am usually the one asking for help but I wanted to go on the offensive on this one.

I also wanted to post this because there are so many forums with so many ways to do this project. I can tell you what you need and how to do it.
 

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Hey - I'm located in Madison Heights... we should plan a ride together! And maybe help me remove mine on my 1100 vstar!
 

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jonrwall

I would like to know more... I have a lot of backfiring on deceleration and heard the AIS is a likely culprit... any pics/advice you can offer is great..

Thanks
 

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I have an old 99 650 that does the same thing. I eventually will replace the airbox and pipes, (both still stock) but in the mean time, if there is some wrenching that will help, Im all about it!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Directions

AIS Removal

Make sure you check with your state laws regarding emissions devices. I am not responsible if you do not pass your smog/emissions test.

I do not take credit for any of this. I received all my ideas from other sites and posts. I placed a link to their page when I used their ideas. I want to give credit where it is due. I wanted to get all the info I found in one place. I also wanted to tell you what to do should things go wrong.

What you need:
1. Long screwdriver
2. 5 lb sledge hammer
3. Vice grips
4. 7/16 threaded rod (3 feet or so.)
5. Pipe nipple
6. Nuts and washers to fit the rod.
7. (2) .45 Caliber shells
8. High temp RTV Gasket sealer

I have a Vstar 650 (2005) and last year converted it to a bobber. At the time I put on Vance and Hines Cruisers and received a noticeable popping on de-acceleration. I re-jetted the carb and had some improvement.

My friend always complained about the look of the AIS. He is the one that got me started on this project. Once it was removed, the popping was gone. I cannot speak for all bikes or applications, but this worked for me.

There are several articles on the web on how to do this. I have placed the links to them below.

Here is what I did:

1. Remove the system itself. Here is a good page with pictures for you to follow: http://www.stargis.net/webslinger/AIS.htm
2. The real issue is the elbows that are stuck in the side of the cylinder heads. There is one in the front head by the horn. The other is in the back by the choke knob. Some people put compression fitting over them and paint them black. I did not want to do that. The thought of having some useless metal protruding from the heads would bother me. They had to go.
3. The front one I removed by hitting the part of the elbow with a hammer. I used a screwdriver to get in there and just knocked it back and forth. You have to hit the part that is not sticking into the bike itself. Once it was loose it came out fairly easily. http://www.stargis.net/webslinger/Docs/FrontAISspigotremoval.pdf
4. If you want to be super safe, use the homemade slide hammer to yank this one as well (see #6.)
5. The rear was the hard one. I got lazy and thought I could work this one back and forth as well. I did recall that I read someone had success doing it this way. DO NOT DO IT. I ended up breaking off the pipe inside the hole. Now I had a piece of AIS tube inside the hole. BAD-BAD. Ironically the rear looks like the easiest one to remove. It is a straight shot in there and there are no forks in the way (like the front.)
6. Put together a cheap slide hammer with the parts listed above (see pic.) The parts are less than $8 if you already have the vice grips (and if you don’t have grips than you cannot be helped.”
7. Grab the end if the elbow with the grips and pull straight back. The plug should come right out.
8. What I ended up doing (after much trial and error) was this. I had to bite the bullet and accept that the tube was not coming out. I did not want to use any means to remove it that would cause metal shavings to go into the head. I bought a 3/8 self tapping bolt from the hardware store. Make sure it is not to long. I do not recall the size but I believe it was ¾ inch (make sure you check first if you made this mistake too.)
9. Covered bolt in RTV high temp gasket. Threaded in with washer (see pic.)
10. Front was plugged by .45 shell. Just a little gasket sealer (RTV again) and it taps in easy with a dowel.
11. All done, no popping and a much cleaner look.

The pics are slider hammer, front plug/bullet shell, rear plug/bolt.



AIS
VSTAR_650_MAIN_MAN.pdf (application/pdf Object)
V Star 650 AIS Removal | Zia Rider Blog
FrontAISspigotremoval.pdf (application/pdf Object)
Webslinger
VSTAR Custom
Message Board - V-Star 650 AIS Removal
 

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Great info jonrwall. I have done the lazy man's AIS disablement and I still have massive popping/backfire. The PO had rebuilt the carbs before I bought the bike so I'm wondering if I don't have a vacuum leak somewhere. A good friend used to own a bike shop so I am going to be getting some help checking that and probably removing the AIS since he also reloads his own ammo and has two he can give me. Take care and great write up.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No worries. I wanted to get it all in one place because I did a lot of research. There is info all over the web about this and so many ways of doing it. You can do in on the cheap and improve performance and save money. I did the disable/u turn fix but realized that the entire thing needed to go. I found rust and crap on those parts/bolts so less parts, less rust. The only question is what to put in the space where the AIS used to be?
 

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I had a 4000 mile service performed on my VStar 650 today. My friendly local service place got rid of my "popping" sound on decelleration. They plugged my AIS system. Before today, I was thinking that I had some dirty carbs. It is good to spread the knowledge.
 

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Just a heads up for any newbies :) If you have stock pipes with cats, DO NOT DISABLE OR REMOVE THE AIS!!!!! If you or the PO have changed out the pipes then go for it :)

And I quote (Sloane Services): Catalytic converters are designed to clean up exhaust emissions by burning off any residual unburned hydrocarbons. In the process they become extremely hot. If there is a large amount of unburned fuel passing into the Cats, they will get hot enough to potentially cause anything flammable near them to catch fire. The AIS system allows oxygen rich air into the exhaust system at the outlet port in the cylinder head. This oxygen will support combustion of any unburnt gasses and consume the hydrocarbons before they make it to the Cats, thus helping to keep the temperature in the Cats down. Disabling the AIS and keeping the Cats is high risk for a fire.
 

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Nice write-up. I would only add that a can of compressed air turned up-side-down makes removal of the elbows very easy. Spray the super cold air from the up-side-down can on the elbows. Freezing them causes the metal to shrink slightly and the elbows all but fell out for me.

This trick came from the very knowledgeable SickMick - all credit to him.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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I say this because I just removed mine and learned the hard way. I am now a self professed AIS master mechanic. If you need any help or advice on the 650 AIS let me know. I researched this for a week before picking up the wrench (I mean hammer.) I am usually the one asking for help but I wanted to go on the offensive on this one.

I also wanted to post this because there are so many forums with so many ways to do this project. I can tell you what you need and how to do it.
2-22-2021, JohnQ-an old guy:
Pulled the rear elbow with an improvised slide hammer. 2.5' of 1/2" water pipe with 1' of 1" pipe sliding on it; the business end bolted to a short chunk of strap with a 3/4" hole in it to fit over the pisser section of the elbow. The resulting hole in the head was easily tapped with .5"-13 coarse threads. Hole size was good. Filled it with a 1/2" long threaded black plug.
The front elbow was left in and the pisser section tapped with 7/16th-14 coarse threads and similarly plugged. Would of bought a short tap but managed with a standard turned by a 6mm open end. Touchy and frustrating.
The result is clean and bullet proof (despite the lack of .45 brass.)
 
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