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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
v-star 650 classic voltage regulator - Updated

Hi, Guys,

Got caught on the road yesterday with a dead battery - got the CAA people to bring the bike home - battery was dead flat - charged it overnight abd it's reading 12.6 v / 12.7 v before starting with the lights on for a few minutes to remove float charge.

At starting the voltage did't go below 10.0 v so it's accepting a full charge.

After starting at idle rpm - 12.6 v - with a twist of the wrist to run the throttle about halfway - absolutely no change in the voltage - 12.6 v.

Now without testing the stator I'm assuming a faulty regulator - mostly because if the rectifier failed I'd have a higher than 14v with the throttle opened.

Now to the question - do I have to remove the tank to replace the regulator / rectifier????? Or doe the cable just loop under the tank / engine area????

If I get the regulator connection exposed I should be able to test the stator without any further disassembly????

UPDATE - After a two week wait between the dealer ordering the stator and finding time to get it installed - it turned out to be the stator - Grounded - so have a new updated stator installed - apparently Yamaha superceded the -02 models for a -03 - hopefully this corrects any flaws in the design / installation - total cost $600.00 - priceless - without the stator the V-Star just became a very heavy pedal bike .

Now we have 5 days of sunshine and moderate temperatures so I'll have to catch up on the mileage missed over the break down period.

Now have a new stator - new regulator and new battery - should be good for another 50k
 

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Here's a quick check list for the 650. When my 1100 regulator went out the voltage spikes to 18+ volts and blew out most lights. Never had a 650 so can't help with what needs to come off.

 

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Could be either. seems like your just reading battery voltage, and nothing from the regulator. So could be a fault in the stator (but I doubt it, would have to be multiple failures). rectifier, again should take multiple failures, or the regulator.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi, Guys,

I've had a busy couple of days with just household stuff that gets ignored while riding but had a chance to get in the good books around the house.

Anyway just decided to order a voltage regulator / rectifier and decided to go OEM even though the OEM failed - supposedly - called the Yamaha dealer first thing Monday morning and the parts guy acted acted as if I was trying to find something for the crashed spaceships at Roswell - he finally found the part even after me giving him the part number - then said they weren't a stock item and would have to order it in and no specific or even general delivery date and then the best part - $270.00. - So I told him I didn't want a custom built one but an off the shelf replacement - that didn't go over too well - then asked what the shop used for replacements and his reply was that they don't see very many of those - I wonder why???

So I went to eBay and ordered one for $30.00 - a direct replacement - should be here maybe Friday or early next week. Wife said I should have ordered two - keep one for a replacement - maybe but if it fails I'd want a different manufacturer.

Then tonight I ordered another from a different manufacturer from my favourite motorcycle parts supplier - Walmart - best part is a 1 year warranty and return policy there - even if it were just 90 days it would be ok.

Keep you posted - tomorrow removing the gas tank and then more electrical trouble shooting - tank is only the speedometer unit - two side mount screws and the fuel line - didn't realize that there was just so little - I'll try and get pics of that as I go along.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, Les,

That flow chart makes it very easy to run checks and make a basic decision.
 

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FYI, many posts on this forum and others, the aftermarket voltage regulators do not last very long at all. Good luck.
 

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Just did a deeper search for Canadian motorcycle parts. Cheapest OEM I found was $228 Canadian. Wow!!! At $30 you could go thru 7 aftermarket ones. That's just crazy.

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks, Duke and Les,

I looked into FortNine and the from the comments thay also suffer from the failure rates common to aftermarket so I passed on them - I'll try the aftermarket one and be on the lookout for a recent used OEM from one of the wreckers - or if I can find an appropriate one stateside then purchase that - didn't realize just how difficult it can be to get a small item such as a regulator - almost as bad a the 1930s crap that the aircraft industry imposes on certified small aircraft - image $250.00 US for a Ford regulator from a model T on an airplane today.
 

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This might be a good one but not OEM. There are not many parts that I say to buy OEM, the voltage regulator is one of them. The aftermarket ones are good to get you back up and on the road but they are prone to fail quickly. I personally went thru many aftermarket ones, different manufacturers. They would last a few months and fail. Always replaced by Sellers but invested more in time than I was saving. Just passing on my personal experience, from a tight wad, that hates buying expensive parts. Many experienced Yamaha bikers told me to buy OEM regulator only. I didn't listen for over a year. Went OEM and 5 years later it still worked. Anyway, that's my 2 cents worth of knowledge.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
This might be a good one but not OEM. There are not many parts that I say to buy OEM, the voltage regulator is one of them. The aftermarket ones are good to get you back up and on the road but they are prone to fail quickly. I personally went thru many aftermarket ones, different manufacturers. They would last a few months and fail. Always replaced by Sellers but invested more in time than I was saving. Just passing on my personal experience, from a tight wad, that hates buying expensive parts. Many experienced Yamaha bikers told me to buy OEM regulator only. I didn't listen for over a year. Went OEM and 5 years later it still worked. Anyway, that's my 2 cents worth of knowledge.
Absolutely appreciate that - always wonder what the aftermarket guys were leaving out to reduce manufacturing costs by 1000% - that's why I readily ordered the second one for a just in case.

Then when an OEM comes around then I'll grab it - by the way the part number from Revzilla was different for the 650 - Yamaha part number - 5KP-81960-00.

I'll check their website and see if they're interchangeable because their price is still a lot better than here.
 

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Absolutely appreciate that - always wonder what the aftermarket guys were leaving out to reduce manufacturing costs by 1000% - that's why I readily ordered the second one for a just in case.

Then when an OEM comes around then I'll grab it - by the way the part number from Revzilla was different for the 650 - Yamaha part number - 5KP-81960-00.

I'll check their website and see if they're interchangeable because their price is still a lot better than here.
Sounds like a plan!
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Here's a copy of Revzilla 5KP-81960-00 voltage regulator rectifier for the 2010 YAmaha V-Star xvs65a Classic - mines a 2015 but the same part number works for both - seems like the US didn't sell any Classics after 2010 while they lasted until 2016 in Canada - fortunately none of the parts changed. Again a $45.00 increase over yours , Les - don't really understand that one either

Update - got the same listing from Partzilla for 119.00 US - looks like that's where I'll probably end up.

 

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The discussion about pricing and reliability for aftermarket regulators is all good

and keep in mind, Bfrench still does not know what is wrong with his bike. If he replaces the OEM regulator with a $40 aftermarket one and it works, then he knows its the regulator

and he can watch for an OEM on a parts bike or some other source.

If he had spent $200 for an OEM regulator, and that was not the problem, you normally cannot return electrical parts for a refund.

$40 for a 'test' regulator is cheaper than taking the bike to a shop just to have them find the problem and tell you what needs to be replaced.
 

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Here's a copy of Revzilla 5KP-81960-00 voltage regulator rectifier for the 2010 YAmaha V-Star xvs65a Classic - mines a 2015 but the same part number works for both - seems like the US didn't sell any Classics after 2010 while they lasted until 2016 in Canada - fortunately none of the parts changed. Again a $45.00 increase over yours , Les - don't really understand that one either

Update - got the same listing from Partzilla for 119.00 US - looks like that's where I'll probably end up.

Sorry about posting wrong one. I've got my 1100 saved in revzilla site and it defaulted to that. It's still amazing the price difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Another update - arose at 6:00 am and was browsing the internet and received an email from Walmart - unit has shipped as of 7:00 am today and is coming from 80 miles away - just can't beat Walmart motorcycle partsd company - a truly Chinese corporation - joke joke grin grin.

Yes KCW is correct - I haven't gotten to the connector to test the stator or regulator so cheap fix is the Chinese regulator - if it's not that which I seriously doubt then I'll still have a cheap spare.

I based the regulator fault on the following.

The battery under off conditions is 12.5 volts after draining off float charge by turning on the lights for a few minutes.

Started the bike and watched voltage drop to around 11.3 / 11.5 volts - the battery is exhibiting full charge acceptance.

While bike is running no voltage change - 12.5 volts.

Rev the throttle and no change in voltage.

If one phase of the stator was dead I'd get an erratic voltage increase - instead of three phases I'd get maybe two with voltage slightly swinging between 14 and 12 volts.

If all three phases were dead - no voltage increase - highly unlikely all three phases are dead - same for the rectifier pack - should be at least one phase suppling something.

Basically leaves the regulator not internally switching on or regulating - so the impromptu choice of purchasing an aftermarket one.

But it could also signify a broken wire to the battery from the regulator - the cheapest fix - and according to Murphys Law - after spending as much money as humanly possible to fix a problem it will always be the thing that cost the least or nothing. Gotta have a sense of humour - Canadian spelling.

It's raining here today and have to put the bike outside to take things apart - so you can see I have prodigious amounts of time to waste - can't even get wet riding in the rain - blah
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Took the tank off and had a chance to check the stator voltages = getting 20+ volts at idle and not enough battery charge to keep the bike running with battery after three or four starts without any recharge.

Now waiting for the regulators to arrive - maybe tomorrow or Monday.

It was relatively easy to remove thr tank - just two bolte - one each side of the bike at the rear of the tank - then lift the rear and the front eases up with a bit of fiddling - had to disconnect the speedometer cable and two electrical connectors inside the unit - other than that a 10 minute job.

Had to remove the carburator intake box that sits under the tank to get enough access to the wires - probably could have done it without that but you'd need small hands.

Then check stator voltage ok - resistance ok and no grounds.
 

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to get the tank off dont you have to take the driver seat off

and to get that off dont you have to take the passenger seat off?

its a vicious cycle :^)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hi, Guys,

Got the regulator this morning and still have the same problem - not voltage increase with throttle application so the battery is not being charged.

The battery tender charges it ti 13.25 volts and on start up the voltage drops to 10,5 volts with a quick recovery to 12.5 volts - indicating that the battery is ok.

Checked for broken wires have continuity from the regulator connection in the harness to the battery positive terminal.

Just leaves the stator to be doubled checked .

I'm trying to find the location of the connector from the stator to the harness - with that open I can run the bike and prove voltage or a grounded stator or open stator - anyone know the location of that conection.

The main fuse should be ok as the bike starts - btw - where the heck is that located.

I've ordered a new battery from a local big battery supplier - only 75 bucks and should be ready Thursday.

Is there any way the battery shuts down regulation if the battery is toast giving a no voltage from the regulator????
 
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