[Rats056]

A great deal for someone who knows.. A 950, with 32k and needs a belt, probly has a pully issue. Gonna let it go for $1800. It sound like it has the pully or trans shaft is a problem, but how much could it set me back? I read one guy had welded his pully to his trans shaft. This bike would sale for about $4000 if i fix that add new tires.

 

[faffi]

Considering that a new pulley would likely last 100k or more if the belt is cared for, welding sounds like a sensible option to me.

 

[Squabeggz]

A great deal for someone who knows.. A 950, with 32k and needs a belt, probly has a pully issue. Gonna let it go for $1800. It sound like it has the pully or trans shaft is a problem, but how much could it set me back? I read one guy had welded his pully to his trans shaft. This bike would sale for about $4000 if i fix that add new tires.

I rebuilt one with a pulley issue. No welding...I'd hate to need to replace something simple like the output shaft oil seal or something...only to remember that you welded the pulley on. Cost roughly 300$ for new gaskets and o-rings (factory) 100$ for a practically unused transmission set off a wrecked Bolt (ebay) 70$ for another ebay score..100 mile pulley off a totaled vstar. So parts to fix cost less than 600$ ish. I even saw decent low mile Bolt 950 engines for around $600-800, so you could straight swap that and not deal with splitting the cases. It's the time that is the killer for shop rates or DIYers. It took me forever because I work slow and it was my first "bigger" engine rebuild. I bet I could do it in a week now....still, at real shop costs, that totals out the bike.

I have a thread on here somewhere. I used a loctite bearing mount on the splines/pulley and red threadlock on the nut. Heat will allow removal. Run the belt looser than published spec. 10mm at 10lbs seems to be the general consensus.

Where is this broken cheap 950 located?

 

[Rats056]

I rebuilt one with a pulley issue. No welding...I'd hate to need to replace something simple like the output shaft oil seal or something...only to remember that you welded the pulley on. Cost roughly 300$ for new gaskets and o-rings (factory) 100$ for a practically unused transmission set off a wrecked Bolt (ebay) 70$ for another ebay score..100 mile pulley off a totaled vstar. So parts to fix cost less than 600$ ish. I even saw decent low mile Bolt 950 engines for around $600-800, so you could straight swap that and not deal with splitting the cases. It's the time that is the killer for shop rates or DIYers. It took me forever because I work slow and it was my first "bigger" engine rebuild. I bet I could do it in a week now....still, at real shop costs, that totals out the bike.

I have a thread on here somewhere. I used a loctite bearing mount on the splines/pulley and red threadlock on the nut. Heat will allow removal. Run the belt looser than published spec. 10mm at 10lbs seems to be the general consensus.

Where is this broken cheap 950 located?

Thanks. They would be a pain for me.
The bike was about an hour above Atlanta.

 

[Redbird58]

@Rats056 have you tried looking on Facebook marketplace or Cycletrader? You can narrow or widen your search there to see whats available in your area. Before I bought mine I was pretty sure I was going to get a VTX1300 but I saw the 950 and thought with my age at the time (59) that the smaller 950 would suit me just fine. It really is a nice handling bike. Good Luck with your search!

 

[Rats056]

@Rats056 have you tried looking on Facebook marketplace or Cycletrader? You can narrow or widen your search there to see whats available in your area. Before I bought mine I was pretty sure I was going to get a VTX1300 but I saw the 950 and thought with my age at the time (59) that the smaller 950 would suit me just fine. It really is a nice handling bike. Good Luck with your search!

Yes i do all the time. I really dont need a bigger bike but I'm wanting one. The 650 is great around town with excellent mileage. But i will depart with it before 100k(@ 55k now. I think i will hold off for now. I considered a Goldwing and found many great deals. But it take 1.5 hours to change an air filter. $160 at a stealer plus filter. That not something i want to deal with.

 

[Jspree]

Have you looked at the Stratoliner,you can find good deals on them and they are fun

 

[Rats056]

Have you looked at the Stratoliner,you can find good deals on them and they are fun

I have, i think the 1900 is more than i need.. I love the 1300 tourer but,, think the 950 suits me best. 950 has everything i want but the Shaft.

 

[bevo1981]

why would you prefer a shaft drive?

 

[Rats056]

why would you prefer a shaft drive?

lo maintenance, no adjustments and its smooth

 

[Jspree]

You do service the driveshaft splines, I learned the hard way about the coupler to the differential and the driveshaft,if you don't keep it greased it fails.
I prefer the belt now, zero maintenance and it lasts about 100 k miles. Just don't use belt dressing if you get a belt, that attracts sand and grit reducing the life of the belt.

 

[Rats056]

You do service the driveshaft splines, I learned the hard way about the coupler to the differential and the driveshaft,if you don't keep it greased it fails.
I prefer the belt now, zero maintenance and it lasts about 100 k miles. Just don't use belt dressing if you get a belt, that attracts sand and grit reducing the life of the belt.

I been readin i see people saying they require adjustments every 5000 miles. Overtighten cause pully and spline damage. I see many saying things totally different about the belts. Many dont make it 25k,. it takes adjustments. Then if you splines are damaed its costly.
I grease my splines with Honda molly grease when i remove the tire. Some suggest once a year. i am going to do that soon and a rear brake job.

 

[Jspree]

The only ones who seem to have a problem with belts is the ones running Yamaha spec or tighter. I run 2 under spec, at 23 k mine looks brand new, Also people found out using any kind of belt dressing eats the pulley and the belt. The 950 is the only one really having the front pulley problem, bucfan had problems with his SVTC, I think it is the bearing on the main output shaft , but the techs never touched that.
I have had chain, shaft and belt and I like the belt.

 

[Rats056]

The only ones who seem to have a problem with belts is the ones running Yamaha spec or tighter. I run 2 under spec, at 23 k mine looks brand new, Also people found out using any kind of belt dressing eats the pulley and the belt. The 950 is the only one really having the front pulley problem, bucfan had problems with his SVTC, I think it is the bearing on the main output shaft , but the techs never touched that.
I have had chain, shaft and belt and I like the belt.

Bearings do go bad. It shouldn't be to difficult to replace the bearing?
I dont know what a SCVT is..
I read that over tightening a belt on these and 1300s can misalign the belt and cause the pully to strip the splines or ruin a bearing.

 

[Jspree]

The SVTC is the Star Venture Trans Continental , it is the full monster touring bike for Yamaha.
but as you say it is over tightening that is the cause. Keep just below spec and you will never need to touch it. It is not like the old chain drive, you don't need to readjust it, set it once and leave it till the next tire change.

 

[Rats056]

The SVTC is the Star Venture Trans Continental , it is the full monster touring bike for Yamaha.
but as you say it is over tightening that is the cause. Keep just below spec and you will never need to touch it. It is not like the old chain drive, you don't need to readjust it, set it once and leave it till the next tire change.

I watch a Tech guy who said they need adjustment about every 5000 miles
Ventures are nice but i hate the old fashion Dash or speedometer.

 

[Jspree]

Go right ahead adjust it every 5000. Mine is fine, you can check it, takes 2 seconds, but I don't fix things that aren't broke. Can can fiddle with stuff all you want. But this is how things get misaligned and over tight. You end up fixing it till it breaks, I personally would rather ride the bike.

 

[Rats056]

Go right ahead adjust it every 5000. Mine is fine, you can check it, takes 2 seconds, but I don't fix things that aren't broke. Can can fiddle with stuff all you want. But this is how things get misaligned and over tight. You end up fixing it till it breaks, I personally would rather ride the bike.

I'm going by what i technician said. dont beat the horse to death

 

[faffi]

Every final drive system have their pros and cons. Chains are the cheapest, lightest and most easily manipulated (alter gearing). Belts are the most silent and smoothest and clean and need little attention. Shafts does not need regular cleaning, are oblivious to the elements and wheel alignment never change.

On the downside, chains are a little messy and want some lube ever so often, need relatively frequent replacement (typically 15-30k mile intervals), plus rain, snow, salt and dirt will shorten their lives. Belts can pick up a stone that will put a hole in them or even break them, they can squeak badly, altering gearing is difficult and costly at best. Shafts have the most unsprung weight, has the highest friction losses, need partial dismantling to have their splines lubed, and wheel alignment cannot be corrected if off from the factory. And with their V-Star series, Yamaha have proved that they can make a shaftdrive system you can cock-up every time the rear wheel comes off. Altering gearing very costly/difficult and repairs are expensive, but very rarely needed. Unless you have a BMW or a V-Star.

Personally, I still prefer shaft drives, but I would not let the final drive system dictate my choice of bikes.

 

[Rats056]

Every final drive system have their pros and cons. Chains are the cheapest, lightest and most easily manipulated (alter gearing). Belts are the most silent and smoothest and clean and need little attention. Shafts does not need regular cleaning, are oblivious to the elements and wheel alignment never change.

On the downside, chains are a little messy and want some lube ever so often, need relatively frequent replacement (typically 15-30k mile intervals), plus rain, snow, salt and dirt will shorten their lives. Belts can pick up a stone that will put a hole in them or even break them, they can squeak badly, altering gearing is difficult and costly at best. Shafts have the most unsprung weight, has the highest friction losses, need partial dismantling to have their splines lubed, and wheel alignment cannot be corrected if off from the factory. And with their V-Star series, Yamaha have proved that they can make a shaftdrive system you can cock-up every time the rear wheel comes off. Altering gearing very costly/difficult and repairs are expensive, but very rarely needed. Unless you have a BMW or a V-Star.

Personally, I still prefer shaft drives, but I would not let the final drive system dictate my choice of bikes.

The belt drive Vstar had many negatives from what i've gathered, The shaft also had some issues. Knowledge is key to knowing how to properly maintain one and not buying a used one that has the issue. There are some great deals on used 950s and 1300's.
As far as shaft goes. The alignment Can be changed. They dont always go right back in position easily but will line up with some force(feet n hands) and even the use of home made plastic washers/spacers help put the alignment right..