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The good thing is that bikes come up for sale all of the time. If you are questioning the 950 I would suggest you grab a 5 mil allen and take it with you when you go to look. It would be worth the peace of mind taking the few min it may take to remove the plastic cover and have an unobstructed look. You can see behind the cover but if you really want to have a look take the 5 bolts out. You may need either a T handle or possibly a crescent wrench for leverage to break them loose. Good Luck with whatever route you take. Plus I know its a big investment and nobody wants to get taken but keep the info on the internet in perspective....not every 950 has or will have the problem. Good Luck! Rootin for ya because I have the 950 and I really like it. Although between you and me....I wish it had a 6th gear...but thats just me.:)
 
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The good thing is that bikes come up for sale all of the time. If you are questioning the 950 I would suggest you grab a 5 mil allen and take it with you when you go to look. It would be worth the peace of mind taking the few min it may take to remove the plastic cover and have an unobstructed look. You can see behind the cover but if you really want to have a look take the 5 bolts out. You may need either a T handle or possibly a crescent wrench for leverage to break them loose. Good Luck with whatever route you take. Plus I know its a big investment and nobody wants to get taken but keep the info on the internet in perspective....not every 950 has or will have the problem. Good Luck! Rootin for ya because I have the 950 and I really like it. Although between you and me....I wish it had a 6th gear...but thats just me.:)
6th is desired on many bikes, tho that often changes the ratio of gears. Do you have a problem with floorboards draggin in turns?
 

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I have only scraped twice on my bike. Ironically in the exact same spot. Mid turn in a traffic circle. For what ever reason they put that thing out in the country on some back roads. But I dont ride the bike hard or throw it around. I just like cruisin. 55 and under and I am just fine. No need to be in a hurry or ride aggressive. Takes the fun out it for me.
 

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I have only scraped twice on my bike. Ironically in the exact same spot. Mid turn in a traffic circle. For what ever reason they put that thing out in the country on some back roads. But I dont ride the bike hard or throw it around. I just like cruising. 55 and under and I am just fine. No need to be in a hurry or ride aggressive. Takes the fun out it for me.
Someone claimed that in time the springs get weaker and it may cause more scrubbing. One fix is to tighten up the rear shock to 4th or 5th notch. there was another fix but i dont remember what it was. I ride hard often and then i get to thinking about the dangers and try to slow down. My nickname here backwards is my ride.
Its a custom 650staR = Rats056
I found a super deal just over 2 hours away on the 950T. thinkin
lol
 

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2001 Yamaha XVS650 Dragstar Classic and 1999 Honda NT650V Deauville
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The belt drive Vstar had many negatives from what i've gathered, The shaft also had some issues. Knowledge is key to knowing how to properly maintain one and not buying a used one that has the issue. There are some great deals on used 950s and 1300's.
As far as shaft goes. The alignment Can be changed. They dont always go right back in position easily but will line up with some force(feet n hands) and even the use of home made plastic washers/spacers help put the alignment right..
Yes, you can adjust most to a tiny degree. I had to shim the final drive housing on my 650 V-Star in order to get the wheel running straight in relation. However, I cannot change how the rear wheel aligns with the front wheel, at least not without the risk of causing some bending forces within the final drive. These bending forces are, I presume, why so many 650 V-Stars end up with damaged final drives.
 

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Yes, you can adjust most to a tiny degree. I had to shim the final drive housing on my 650 V-Star in order to get the wheel running straight in relation. However, I cannot change how the rear wheel aligns with the front wheel, at least not without the risk of causing some bending forces within the final drive. These bending forces are, I presume, why so many 650 V-Stars end up with damaged final drives.
The rear should align with the front if the frame is good?
 

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Super Moderator "Loose Nut" - Houston, Texas
2001 Vstar 1100 Classic (sold), 2006 HD Electra Glide Ultra Classic
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Maybe this will help. As long as the tires are on a parallel plain, they don't need to be exactly one behind the other.

105372
 
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Super Moderator "Loose Nut" - Houston, Texas
2001 Vstar 1100 Classic (sold), 2006 HD Electra Glide Ultra Classic
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good info.. Les What you ride now? it says you sold an 1100 classic.
Brand X. :LOL:

105377
 

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I too prefer shaft drive. I never had a shaft fail me. One morning on the way to work I was coming off of the freeway turned right to a stop light. Tried to go... nothing. A guy pulled up next to me and said "your belt is on the ground" I must have picked up a bolt on the offramp. The Strat is my first bike with a belt and the best bike I've ever owned.
105379
 
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Brand X. :LOL:

View attachment 105377
Nice,, if you like those Taiwanese bikes 🤣

I too prefer shaft drive. I never had a shaft fail me. One morning on the way to work I was coming off of the freeway turned right to a stop light. Tried to go... nothing. A guy pulled up next to me and said "your belt is on the ground" I must have picked up a bolt on the offramp. The Strat is my first bike with a belt and the best bike I've ever owned.
Wow, you got a beast
 

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6th is desired on many bikes, tho that often changes the ratio of gears. Do you have a problem with floorboards draggin in turns?
i scrape my floorboards often, but my bike is lowered 2.25" in the rear.
my belt issues, and most others in the early years of the 950, is because they were over-tightened from the factory due to Yamaha's incorrect specs. i replaced my belt at 30k miles, loosened the tension, and now have over 60k miles on my replacement belt. and the front pulley nut issue on the 950 is pretty rare. just because a few people document it doesn't mean it has happened a lot. no bike is perfect and without issue. it's just that the most prominent issue documented with the 950 happens to involve the belt drive.
 

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i scrape my floorboards often, but my bike is lowered 2.25" in the rear.
my belt issues, and most others in the early years of the 950, is because they were over-tightened from the factory due to Yamaha's incorrect specs. i replaced my belt at 30k miles, loosened the tension, and now have over 60k miles on my replacement belt. and the front pulley nut issue on the 950 is pretty rare. just because a few people document it doesn't mean it has happened a lot. no bike is perfect and without issue. it's just that the most prominent issue documented with the 950 happens to involve the belt drive.
Thanks
good to know

I have Beauty and the Strat.
which bike do you ride most now?
 

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About 50/50 right now. It's pretty much rock paper scissors which one I ride to work.
 

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The rear should align with the front if the frame is good?
That is the problem - production tolerances can result in the swingarm being off by several millimeters.
 

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If the 950 has cast wheels, it runs tubeless. Wire wheels = tubes on Star cruisers.

Handling and tire wear will be affected. Perhaps the final drive gears as well, if you need to place bending forces into the wheel in order to get the axle through. I have never considered it an issue until I replaced the rear tire on my 650. You can see one example of how the gap can be before shimming the final drive mounts, how skewed the wheel sits, in the pictures below. You want an even gap all around the circumference. I have not checked how the wheels line up since my concern is the life of the final drive, which is why it was important to me to get the gaps correct.

 

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If the 950 has cast wheels, it runs tubeless. Wire wheels = tubes on Star cruisers.

Handling and tire wear will be affected. Perhaps the final drive gears as well, if you need to place bending forces into the wheel in order to get the axle through. I have never considered it an issue until I replaced the rear tire on my 650. You can see one example of how the gap can be before shimming the final drive mounts, how skewed the wheel sits, in the pictures below. You want an even gap all around the circumference. I have not checked how the wheels line up since my concern is the life of the final drive, which is why it was important to me to get the gaps correct.
YES i had to shim the rear end on my 650custom. Not to difficult to do.
105401
 
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