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Discussion Starter #1
I had a lot of noise from valves on my vstar 1100 Classic. So i decided to adjust the valves. not a new thing for me. I adjusted valves on hondas and harleys before, and it always went fine.
Now, i met a problem.
First of all, i found the info on right valve adjustment on V-Star 1100 Wiki

So i went for the right measurements as stated there.
Kinda got worse, more noise.
And, the front cylinder are almost all the time flushed with oil now (air intake box are thick of the oil)
First question: To much oil in the crank case? I have perfect oil level.

After valve adjustment, i have really low idle, and it almost dies on rides. As if it cannot suck fuel or air?
The bike i bought supposedly have a jet kit installed. So i guess it is not original carburetor adjustments...
Should the vales be adjusted different also?
Cus it seems like they are way off, even when i follow the wiki measurements.

Is it recommended to change the O-rings on the valve covers on this bike? Or do they take another turn?
This was kinda very annoying :)
 

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Did you line up the tdc marks right.You should have play in the valves when you do.PICS 1-2 is the front head.Iuse my O-rings 2 or 3 times.They say to keep the oil between the two marks on the sight class.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Did you line up the tdc marks right.You should have play in the valves when you do.PICS 1-2 is the front head.Iuse my O-rings 2 or 3 times.They say to keep the oil between the two marks on the sight class.
Hi there,
Thanks for the pics. Seems like i did it right about the TDC marks
I just came in from garage and took of valve caps again, cleaned again, turned the O-rings.
I will take a test ride again tomorrow.
Oh i sucked up some Oil now, as it was just a millimeter under the top mark. Maybe the air box will not fill up so much (thanks btw ) I was used to have it just under the MAX mark.
I will pic the bike apart again after test ride, to check for oil in the air intake box, and check for leaks around the valve caps
 

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If you followed the instructions in the wiki, you should be fine. What grade of oil do you use? I normally use 20W50 but I decided to go with 10W40 for the spring time. Man, my engine went from quiet back to sewing machine. Can't wait to get 5000 kms in to change it over to 20W50.

The oil level should be in between the two mark and not just below the upper mark. This could be the cause of your oil in the breather box. Your idle should be at 1000 rpm or so. Adjusting the valves wouldn't affect this. And lastly, I always change out the seals (o rings) when I do maintenance. Its cheap insurance; call it a professional habit.

Let us know what you find.
 

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Just so you know...the valves on an 1100 will get quieter as they wear, not noisier. Normally if you can hear them...they are OK. It's when you can't that you really need to start worrying.
 

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Just so you know...the valves on an 1100 will get quieter as they wear, not noisier. Normally if you can hear them...they are OK. It's when you can't that you really need to start worrying.
Hey Mick I've had my bike for about 2 years now and it has 20k on it, I don't ever remember hearing the valves on it and the engine was always quiet. That being said I do have an appointment to adjust valves next week but apart from no valve noise what would be the engine symptoms that the valves are too tight? I'm going to ride around still this week since I don't think one week out of two years will make any difference but I would just like to know in case anything does come up.
 

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Hey Mick I've had my bike for about 2 years now and it has 20k on it, I don't ever remember hearing the valves on it and the engine was always quiet. That being said I do have an appointment to adjust valves next week but apart from no valve noise what would be the engine symptoms that the valves are too tight? I'm going to ride around still this week since I don't think one week out of two years will make any difference but I would just like to know in case anything does come up.
You'd probably not notice a whole lot until a valve bent. Just going by noise is not the proper way to "check" the valves anyway.....that's what feeler gauges are for. :)
 

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I had a lot of noise from valves on my vstar 1100 Classic. So i decided to adjust the valves. not a new thing for me. I adjusted valves on hondas and harleys before, and it always went fine.
Now, i met a problem.
First of all, i found the info on right valve adjustment on V-Star 1100 Wiki

So i went for the right measurements as stated there.
Kinda got worse, more noise.
And, the front cylinder are almost all the time flushed with oil now (air intake box are thick of the oil)
First question: To much oil in the crank case? I have perfect oil level.

After valve adjustment, i have really low idle, and it almost dies on rides. As if it cannot suck fuel or air?
The bike i bought supposedly have a jet kit installed. So i guess it is not original carburetor adjustments...
Should the vales be adjusted different also?
Cus it seems like they are way off, even when i follow the wiki measurements.

Is it recommended to change the O-rings on the valve covers on this bike? Or do they take another turn?
This was kinda very annoying :)
Hey Varg.....adjust the idle to 950-1050 RPM, that's where it should be. After tuning you may need to readjust it.

The jets in the carb have nothing to do with the valve clearance. What modifications are on the bike that they needed to change the jets?
 

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You'd probably not notice a whole lot until a valve bent. Just going by noise is not the proper way to "check" the valves anyway.....that's what feeler gauges are for. :)
Well I got quoted $300 for a valve adjustment so I'm pretty sure now I'm just going to do it myself. The shop said it's a three hour job but after reading the manual it seems like the hardest part is taking everything apart and should take a professional one hour.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you followed the instructions in the wiki, you should be fine. What grade of oil do you use? I normally use 20W50 but I decided to go with 10W40 for the spring time. Man, my engine went from quiet back to sewing machine. Can't wait to get 5000 kms in to change it over to 20W50.

The oil level should be in between the two mark and not just below the upper mark. This could be the cause of your oil in the breather box. Your idle should be at 1000 rpm or so. Adjusting the valves wouldn't affect this. And lastly, I always change out the seals (o rings) when I do maintenance. Its cheap insurance; call it a professional habit.

Let us know what you find.
Hi,

Oil now on my bike are 10W40
I was reading elsewhere that others also suggest ticker oilk
But my climate here in scandinavia might not be the best for it?
I will also adjust my idle a little
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just so you know...the valves on an 1100 will get quieter as they wear, not noisier. Normally if you can hear them...they are OK. It's when you can't that you really need to start worrying.
Yeah, and it could be me just adjusting from other brands of motorcycles ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hey Varg.....adjust the idle to 950-1050 RPM, that's where it should be. After tuning you may need to readjust it.

The jets in the carb have nothing to do with the valve clearance. What modifications are on the bike that they needed to change the jets?
Thanks, then i know :)
I will fine adjust the idle, do a clean check at the valves once more, and change the O-rings, and try out less Oil, and maybe another W :)
 

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Thanks, then i know :)
I will fine adjust the idle, do a clean check at the valves once more, and change the O-rings, and try out less Oil, and maybe another W :)
Would you recommend a total newbie to do the valve check by themselves or have a shop do it? I've jetted the bike myself and put pods on but that was pretty straight forward. Doing the valves would be completely new to me.
 

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Would you recommend a total newbie to do the valve check by themselves or have a shop do it? I've jetted the bike myself and put pods on but that was pretty straight forward. Doing the valves would be completely new to me.
If you are mechanically inclined, have the proper tools and can follow directions to the letter....yeah, it's pretty easy. It just takes some time and patience.
 

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Would you recommend a total newbie to do the valve check by themselves or have a shop do it? I've jetted the bike myself and put pods on but that was pretty straight forward. Doing the valves would be completely new to me.
Yup..What Mr. Mick said! I did pods/rejet, cams and valve adjustment all for the first time within 5 months...If you can follow instructions there is no problem! For the valves you will need a deep socket 22mm and some feeler gauges. I recommend a manual, but you can also find some decent walkthroughs online
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well I got quoted $300 for a valve adjustment so I'm pretty sure now I'm just going to do it myself. The shop said it's a three hour job but after reading the manual it seems like the hardest part is taking everything apart and should take a professional one hour.
first time i took this bike apart to check for valves it took 2 hours.
I am no pro, but this was a "easy" job if i compare it to other bikes i had. I adjusted, took a test ride, parked it again, and then took it apart second time, even faster.
Cheapest shop here takes 540 usd to check valves. Money saved.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well, it seems like there is some oil in the front cylinder, that comes out at the exhaust mount (is that possible?)
i took of exhaust, clean and checked that the exhaust pipe gasket was dry, washed it, made it dry it, and mounted all again, 'cus when i removed the cylinder cover, over the exhaust the other day, it splatted some oil out there.
But still there must come some oil there, cus the smoke is terrible! Seems like it goes straight to exhaust .. not good!
Anyone know why this happen?
Re-adjust the valves all over again?
Oil level are now between below and top.
 

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Well, it seems like there is some oil in the front cylinder, that comes out at the exhaust mount (is that possible?)
i took of exhaust, clean and checked that the exhaust pipe gasket was dry, washed it, made it dry it, and mounted all again, 'cus when i removed the cylinder cover, over the exhaust the other day, it splatted some oil out there.
But still there must come some oil there, cus the smoke is terrible! Seems like it goes straight to exhaust .. not good!
Anyone know why this happen?
Re-adjust the valves all over again?
Oil level are now between below and top.
Sounds like it is coming from the valve cover that is right above the front exhaust pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Sounds like it is coming from the valve cover that is right above the front exhaust pipe.
That was i thought also, but it is dry as desert around it.
I think i forgot to check free play on rocket arms before i did did the correct TDC alignment on the front cylinder?
Could that cause the problem?
(i will correct it tomorrow)
 
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