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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone done the valve adjustment on the 950? My motorcycle mechanic friend said he would help me with it. But I've been learning how to do basic maintenence on my bike.

Can anyone recommend any resources or videos for doing good the adjustment. I'm sure I can't do it alone, but my motorcycle mechanic friend told me he would teach me how to do it. So I want to learn!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
pretty sure i found a 950 video on youtube. valve adjustment is one of the things i haven't done on mine and would prefer to have an expert do it. speaking of which, it's been about 40K miles since my last one so maybe i'm due as well.
Wow. Well. I have almost 20k on my bike now. Told my mechanic friend that my bike is running fine. But he says if they get too tight it could cause issues. Think the manual says to check at either 12,000 and 24,000.
 

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Wow. Well. I have almost 20k on my bike now. Told my mechanic friend that my bike is running fine. But he says if they get too tight it could cause issues. Think the manual says to check at either 12,000 and 24,000.
at 20 thousand the valves are well seated and stretched you can now go to the tighter end of the specs to cut down on tappet noise, the reason valves get tighter is because when new they sink deeper into the seats and the stem stretches but over time they just about stop doing that. after 20 thousand miles my clearances have barely moved and i check them every winter and i,m at 60 thousand as of this year, when you get them right there will be just a hint of a tick when hot when cold i don't hear mine at all, it's only the exhaust valve you have to worry about to tight and will burn but if the intake gets to tight all that happens is a miss under heavy throttle and it wont burn because the fresh fuel cools it, when the exhaust valve sits on its seat the heat gets transferred to the head so it needs to close completely but if it gets too tight it can't do that, once you get the tank and head covers off i think you can get right to the valve covers, lucky you have an injected bike...no carbs to remove like my 650
 

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One of the biggest reasons the valve seem to not wear as much is the rocker arms contact the cam via roller bearings, this design is only on the new Yamaha engines found on the 1300, Stryker and 950, and bolt. This is also the reason people complain about noisy valve trains o these bikes due to the roller bearing noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I bit the bullet and took the bike into the shop for the adjustment. I have a friend that offered to help show me how to do it. But he's so busy. I've already put close to a thousand miles on since I came back from crossing the country, and that trip was 7,185 miles. (All in all I've put over 13,000 miles on my bike this season!)

I like the idea of getting all maintenence done before winter so it's ready for Spring. And who knows how many more miles I'll put on before it snows here in Massachusetts!
 

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I dont know for the 950 but the 650 shop manual is online, or at least you can find it every once in a while online.

There is nothing particularly difficult about adjusting the valves, most of the work is getting everything off and out of the way to get to them, and then putting it all back on. But its all pretty simple wrenching. BTW getting a torque wrench is a good idea.

I owned a lot of air cooled VWs back in the 20th century, and adjusting the valves was a 3000 mile tuneup task, along with changing the oil. After a few times you get a feel for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for sharing Tom HB. I went the easy route and had the shop do it. My motorcycle guru friend scolded me, because he said he would walk me through it. But I had money left in a service package I bought when I purchased a bike from them.

I recently watch my friend do an adjustment on the GS1100G we are working on. Seems like I could learn how to do it. It's just intimidating doing such seemingly involved task.

Thanks again for video! :)

Sent from my SM-S975L using Tapatalk
 
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