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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys

Pulling off my steel spoke wheels and replacing with alloys fitted with new tyre and rotor, problem is when I got to the shaft cover surronding the centre drive sprocket it wont just pull/slip off , have looked at vids but it seems such a simple part of the vid that everyone seems to bypass it on the process . Does anyone know if there is a problem that I am not taking into account here, axle is out I did not drain the hub but figured that could not be an issue its almost like the shaft itself is not releasing from the central gear spocket on the rim . anyone have a suggestion ,as I am loathed to start putting a screwdriver flat on either side to lever it up . Cheers Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Ok update got the hub off had to resort to flat blade in the gap and a rubber mallet . Found out why I think the previous owner had either had work done or did it himself that caused the rear wheel to be removed. When they refitted the components the torque setting were way over the recomended setting I believe this squeezed the hub to the point where it burred on the mating surface. Guys just a reminded to stick to the torque setting of your bike . I am now trying to figure out how to fix one of the four securing bolts to the drive shaft housing as it had been done up so tight it snapped a bottom piece of aluminium thread internally and gave up its tightning ability. Any suggestions out there , I am wondering if there is enough meat in the casting for a new hole to be drilled and threaded with a bigger bolt
 

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2006 Stratoliner, 2014 Triumph Rocket III Touring, '81 XS650SH Project
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I am now trying to figure out how to fix one of the four securing bolts to the drive shaft housing as it had been done up so tight it snapped a bottom piece of aluminum thread internally and gave up its tightening ability. Any suggestions out there , I am wondering if there is enough meat in the casting for a new hole to be drilled and threaded with a bigger bolt
Show us a couple f pictures please of the area in question here. I wouldn't want to give bad advice here as i think this may lead to problems down the road if not done correctly.
 

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Another possible cause, the previous installer did apply grease to the splined hub, and the two halves started to wear into each other, locking them together. There is a specific grease to apply to the drive shaft splines as well as the hub to wheel splines. If the grease isn't used, the parts will wear quite fast from what I've read.

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Discussion Starter #5
Show us a couple f pictures please of the area in question here. I wouldn't want to give bad advice here as i think this may lead to problems down the road if not done correctly.
Hey Boog, will get those p[ics on in next 24hrs , Thanks for reading and appreciate everones input. Cheers Chilli
 

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@Chilliherb - if the thread is only stripped and there is no cracking of the housing, I would recommend using a helicoil to repair the thread. Basically, you tap the hole out slightly larger and then install a wire thread insert to bring the thread back to the OEM size. I use helicoils a lot in my line of work and have never had one fail.
 
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And for the 1100 , ebay has some really good prices on an almost new rear end, just read the descriptions, I bought one for my 650 with less then 10k miles on it.The price is triple for the 650, but the 1100 prices make it to where it is almost cheaper then working on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The Botton left is the one thats not holding Torque spec. Does not appear to be any cracking but I think I will have to take off the cover to confirm that . I hate fixing other peoples FUBBs. :(:rolleyes::( Just saying
Ill have a look at hte ebay lists maybe ther will be a bargain in Australia :D:D:D
 

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Are you talking about the one I have circle in yellow? if it is that one , I would just helicoil it, that is in the nose piece and not going into the differential.Or a new nose cone can be purchased from Partzilla

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