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Discussion Starter #1
Just got this bike this past spring with 06 vstar classic with 16k on it. Did alot of research about pods and other mods. Finally got all my parts collected and installed. Bub jug hugger exhaust, ais delete, diy pod mod, fuel shut off removed, main jet holder oring removed, 150 mains 20 pilot and 2.5 turns on the PMS screw. Also did a valve adjustment while I was there and bench sync the carbs. So I fired it up for the first time. Sounded great. Ran OK with the choke on and then died when I took the choke off. Im thinking my idle may be set way low. So I fired it back up and kept the rpm up and it started only hitting on one cylinder. Pulled the front pulled and its fouled.

Guess my question is should I go back to the stock 17.5 pilot jet or should syncing the carbs on the bike clear it up. I should also note that when I did the bench sync the carb adjustment on the front carb butterfly was slightly open vs the rear being fully shut. So when I tried to set the even I maxed out the adjusting screw on the front carb
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Uh oh.. small black oring? Im borrowing a tach from a guy tomorrow to set the idle. I kind of just did it by ear for the time being. I'll try backing the PMS out another turn as well. Wouldn't backing it out make the mixture richer though? Also is it normal for thr factory carb sync to be that different, one being open pretty far and the other being completly shut.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OK never mind about the oring. I do remember the one under the cap. I even took it back off to make sure it was there after I got it back together
 

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https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r5I6nwjjf_c/UEqdIpR64-I/AAAAAAAAAEU/UNOW-f3aYJc/s641/Slides-Needle-Holders.jpg the oring is under the top black cap its easier to see when its in place on top of the carb.turning the screws out will make it richer but it will be set for best running and can e adjusted later, something is wrong inside to give you the fouled plug.as for sinking you need to start over,you might try turning the idle knob out till its nolonger affecting the linkage then fooling with the sinc screw till it starts moving the linkage then bring the idle knob up close to same and try it you cant hurt anything by turning the idle knob out
 

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Check out what Nick says.....make sure to do a vacuum synch. If that doesn't fix it, and you are fouling a plug like that, something done to the carbs is really messed up. I'd suggest taking them off and starting over if the synch doesn't do it..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the replies guys. I'll probably pull the carbs back off tonight and recheck everything when I get time over the next couple days. I remember rechecking for the black oring. I'll let you know what I figure out
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also another quick question while I have some veterans in here. Shortly after I got this bike the trans yoke nut backed off. I pulled the swing arm and luckily only had to thread on a new nut with some loctite and ping the threads. So obviously ever sense I got the bike it had gear noise so I don't know what a new one should sound like. I still have a little bit of gear noise on decel mostly noticeable riding 2 up. Is a little bit acceptable
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK this took a turn for the worst. Finally got the carbs some what synced. And also installed a new plug on the front jug. While running I noticed the exhaust kind of had a gasping noise. Stuck my hand to it. Sucked it right in. Performed a compression test. 80-90 psi on both. Put some oil in the cylinder and the compression shot up to 120. Also while cranking the blow by hose was probably blowing out as quickly as the intake was sucking it in. Any advice on rebuilding one of these. I'm not afraid of building an engine. I rebuild diesel engines all day long. Just need some advice or what the preferred route I should take
 

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You did hold the throttle open when you did the compression test?

These things have some super tough cylinder walls...it's a rarity to see one do that.
 

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That's a real interesting dilemma you got there. What engine? What is the blow-by hose? Never heard of that. Is it possible the valves are adjusted too tight? Have you tried a leak down test on the cylinders? Sounds like valve or cam problem to me. Or timing. Anyway good luck in your search for the problem, and sorry I can't help.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OK sickmick. Did the compression test with the throttle open and the compression was 150 or so. Pulled the carbs back off and went through them and pulled everything I put in there off and then back on. Bench synced them again. Didn't have time to reinstall them.
 

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Also another quick question while I have some veterans in here. Shortly after I got this bike the trans yoke nut backed off. I pulled the swing arm and luckily only had to thread on a new nut with some loctite and ping the threads. So obviously ever sense I got the bike it had gear noise so I don't know what a new one should sound like. I still have a little bit of gear noise on decel mostly noticeable riding 2 up. Is a little bit acceptable
You'll get a little a little gear whine...but like Nick says, make sure the rear wheel is lubed with Honda Moly 60....

I had a feeling the compression would be OK...these motors never wear out. If you ever get a chance to look at the inside of the jugs or split a case, you'll see a real quality product. Even the crankcase in powder coated internally...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
OK so I think a better bench sync was the answer. Although with my vacuum guages I'm still getting a lot of bounce even with a main jet inserted in the hose and I don't think it's exactly right. Now when I get my idle down to about 1050 rpm it sounds like its about to die and then I give it throttle and it dies out. Using a snap on timing light with a tach.
 

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OK so I think a better bench sync was the answer. Although with my vacuum guages I'm still getting a lot of bounce even with a main jet inserted in the hose and I don't think it's exactly right. Now when I get my idle down to about 1050 rpm it sounds like its about to die and then I give it throttle and it dies out. Using a snap on timing light with a tach.
Use an aquarium valve on each side.....that's what I have on mine....works perfect for preventing bounce.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I may try and bring a manometer home from work and see if that helps. Seeing how they haven't been used in a decade I dont think theyll miss it for a couple days. You think once I get the sync spot on that it should let me bring the idle down or will I just have to leave it at a higher idle
 

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Discussion Starter #20
OK so I got it pretty well synced with the manometer. Now after running for several minutes the bike is running very rich and fills the garage full of smoke. I've turned the PMS screw to 2 turns out and still get smoke out of the tailpipe. Think I should go back with the stock pilots? As far as revving it goes it does not drop the rpm, it just revs
 
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