Buying this Yamalube now unless someone determines it won’t work.What are you guys paying for that Loctite 8012? Amazon wants $45 for 8oz of the stuff. SHEET!!!
Loctite 234227 LOC51048 Moly Paste Anti-Seize Compound: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Why not buy the actual Yamalube product? I got this for $13. Only 4.5oz, but you don't need much.
Amazon.com: Yamaha Marine New OEM Molybdenum Disulfide Grease 4, ACC-MOLDM-GS-05: Automotive
The product listing photo sucks, and doesn't show what you actually get. But it is the correct product. Pics below. Notice in the last photo it even has the icon with a grease gun with an "M" on it, which comes right out of the owners manual.
The computer said FedEx had mine out for delivery on Saturday, it didn't show up. I called my grandson ( he works for FedEx) he found out is what out for delivery in Georgia, I live in Pensacola Florida, if finally made it Monday evening.(FedEx lost the first set) so J&P are sending replacements.
This is why I said experience,i wondered why yamaha did not include. tearing down the shaft to lube the splines
Mine moved from Friday the 28th until Wednesday June 3rd where it’s been stopped ever since. I received 5 shipments from FedEx over the last year - and they lost 2 of them.The computer said FedEx had mine out for delivery on Saturday, it didn't show up. I called my grandson ( he works for FedEx) he found out is what out for delivery in Georgia, I live in Pensacola Florida, if finally made it Monday evening.
This is why I said experience,
A little story on just that. My first experience with a shaft drive was the 650 Classic. As you say no where does it mention greasing the shaft at the coupling to the differential. My bike had 74 k miles on it ( never serviced) and that coupling stripped, at a stoplight . That was when I found that coupling and learned how to set it up and grease it. it failed again 15k miles later, this time it was the splines going to the differential. Probably still damage from the first failure, so I replace the driveshaft and the coupler ( new) and a used differential from ebay, now it has 165k miles on it and the driveshaft and coupler look brand new ( just greasy) . I too wish they had put it in the book , it would have save me 2 failures and a bunch of money.
You can buy an OEM driveshaft and coupler from Partzilla, ebay is your friend when it comes to the differential ( they are real expensive)
As for me I prefer belt drive or chain drive, some love the shaft drive, I am not real crazy about it.
I don't know why you would not use the molybdenum disulfide grease. My OEM repair manual clearly says to use it. And I don't think it is a coincidence that the grease gun icon in the manual has a big "M" on it, and the correct grease has the same icon. I might quibble over the 60% minimum, I kind of think someone just made up a number, but the designers determined that a grease bearing MO was necessary. (MO is the chemistry symbol for the element of Molybdenum) The OEM manual does not tell us what percentage of MO is required as a minimum, but instead, better than that, they sell the exact grease for the application.
MO is considered necessary for components which slide under load. And your spline shaft slides laterally a tiny bit with each articulation of the swing-arm, and for that matter, with each rotation of the U-joint.
You could have already spent very few bucks and had a tube of it in hand in the time you've spent trying to convince yourself that it isn't necessary.
But, WTF, it's your bike.