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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I bought a 2010 classic the other week, all mechanically sound and rather immaculate condition for its age but I just have a few questions and concerns.

1. Cold starting - I upped from a virago 250 that needed the choke when it basically just wasn't sunny however the star starts and idles just fine, even during 14 degree nights. Is that normal? Last time I experienced such easy starts was when my 250 had bigger jets and was running real rich.

2. Exhaust - old owner drilled the baffles so I replaced the system with v&h shorts with their optional quiet baffles that have packing and a cap at one end to reduce noise but I noticed that the headers are turning their usual lean mix gold, and the front header is taking on a blue tint but tbh I'm not sure if that was there prior to the v&h. iirc blueing is more of a rich symptom? I've heard they're gonna turn gold irregardless but I'd like feedback on that

3. This sorta ties it together but I was wondering on the impact of a open air filter rather than stock. I figured if I'm currently running either rich or lean that putting on one of these and jetting accordingly might be the all round better solution. The shop I can get an intake off recommended 32.5 pilot and 115 main with this setup but I've noticed that changing the pilot might not be necessary according to 650ccnd and some other charts. They also didn't mention changing needle position but if I ask about it, they might say. Could I get opinions on this too?

My general ride style is basically a work commute that never really goes more than 60kms/h, but during busy periods it's not unusual to sit at an intersection on idle for a lil while, which makes me wonder if a better air system might help with temps? The local ambient air is usually a lil chilly given my locale.

I don't want to lose my bottom end torque that I have already as it's what's being utilised the most, I'd rarely use the top end save for maybe the odd trip out of town in 100km zones. I'm not sure if anything mentioned affects my bottom end but I thought I'd give as much info as possible.

Attached is a few images + the air filter in question.

P.s does anyone have a pic of what the rear header looks like with the gasket? Can't tell if mine is so baked in or not present. Pipes fit flush and there doesn't appear to be an indent where a gasket would be obvious but I'm concerned about an exhaust leak too.

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My opinion, if it's running well, ride it. I've been through hypercharger-lots of tuning to get it right, pods--great top end but mileage drop. Yes you can change performance somewhat, but for a commute bike, your mileage will suffer. It's a 650, cruiser. If you want more power, get a bigger bike. Sorry, just an opinion. Ride safe, think safer!
 

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Administrator - "Loose Nut" - Bandera, Texas
2001 VS1100 Classic (sold), 2006 HD EG(totaled) 2006 Vulcan 900 and 2019 HD Freewheeler (current)
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Pull plugs to determine if running lean which will blue the pipes due to heat. Gasket is an oring that can't be seen.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you to both the replies -

I think I'll ditch the idea of an intake and maybe go a step up in jets as it does look like I'm running lean - I heard somewhere these bikes run lean out of the factory but I think the exhaust change has exacerbated it. The stock main jet is 90, should I go just one step of 92 or 95? also, just to confirm they take the large round size?
 

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Administrator - "Loose Nut" - Bandera, Texas
2001 VS1100 Classic (sold), 2006 HD EG(totaled) 2006 Vulcan 900 and 2019 HD Freewheeler (current)
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Without pulling carbs to see what size jets are in there, you can't make an informed jet replacement. Judging from the amount of blue on pipe, you are several sizes to small on mains. Pull plugs and post pictures, we can help you make a closer guesstimate. Jetting is a trial and error endeavor.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Without pulling carbs to see what size jets are in there, you can't make an informed jet replacement. Judging from the amount of blue on pipe, you are several sizes to small on mains. Pull plugs and post pictures, we can help you make a closer guesstimate. Jetting is a trial and error endeavor.
Alright, I'll do this in the morning as the weather suddenly decided it's monsoon time.

I was also wondering about what the shop mentioned about the air filter jet recommendations - they mentioned 32.5 pilot and 110 main - I know everyone has different tests and different configurations work for different people but it seems like a universal opinion based on 650ccnd that the pilot is left stock, what kind of impact is upping the pilot in this circumstance going to have over leaving it stock? Its also worth mentioning that compared to the BAK or other similar ram-air kits that the recommended main jet is a few sizes under, as most recommend 117.5 all the way to 127. That's a fairly large step but I'm not fully educated in air intake dynamics to guess why a filter like this would use smaller jets than say barons ram air which is the most similar in overall size and shape, utilizing several sizes higher. I'm happy to buy a range of jets but if I can narrow the selection, well.
 

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Administrator - "Loose Nut" - Bandera, Texas
2001 VS1100 Classic (sold), 2006 HD EG(totaled) 2006 Vulcan 900 and 2019 HD Freewheeler (current)
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My method that works for me. Whenever I make a intake or exhaust change I take bike or car out and run it for a few miles. Kill ignition and coast to stop, idling an engine will alter plug color. Pull a plug to see color. Will normally go up or down two sizes on jets at a time to get correct color on plug. Normally have to do this several times. Each bike is a little different and will color plugs slightly different. I run a tad on rich side. I've accumulated many different jets over the years to help this process. Most intake jet "kits" come with several jets as they understand no two bikes are the same. Some folks get lucky and hit it on the first try. Don't forget you must sync carbs every time you touch them, every time. Might take a few days to get it right, but when you do, the reward is worth the effort. This next weekend I'm going to my son's to tune the carb on "my" Mustang I gave him. He changed the air cleaner setup and says it's not running right. I actually like messing with carbs so it's a labor of love.
 

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Here is a website you may find helpful. There are links toward the bottom of the page for Performance mods, How To and other info that 650 Owners put together back when the 650 V-Stars were VERY popular and had one of the most active forums on Delphi.

650 CC & D

Daniel
Thanks for this! I know I am not the OP but I am a new 650 owner and this is very helpful.
 

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Thanks for this! I know I am not the OP but I am a new 650 owner and this is very helpful.
You're welcome. The 650 forum on Delphi (ISRA 650 CC&D) used to be a very lively place. As the owners got older, changed bikes, etc... AND as Yamaha discontinued the line, the forum all but died. While it was active they compiled a great library of info on their webpage. I still refer to it occasionally.

Daniel
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So I took it to a shop since they also had a torque wrench and they had a squiz at the plugs and it was evident I was running lean. He unfortunately didn't have replacements but we both discovered that I had PMS thumb screws and that we didn't need to drill out the brass cap so we turned both screws about half-out, and the decel popping went away completely and a few overall idle to low speed/takeoffs seem to improve to. I kinda feel like I've hit the right zone now so I'm a touch hesitant to mess with those screws more.

Exhaust sounds a bit more steady on beat, hadn't really noticed until the mix was changed but now it's like hearing two distinctive note as opposed to three, if that makes any sense.

For those looking from the future with the same setup as me, assuming the mix is stock at 2.5, mine would now be 3 with V&H shorts with their quiet baffles as they come out of the box. Stock intake, a small adjust to idle with a warm engine to find that right zone and things improved. Just to note, quiet baffles are not the baffles that come with the shorts, they are a separate purchase.
 
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