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So I didn’t do anything to the bike today but I did stop by Cycle Gear while I was out of town this week and picked up some GloveTacts for my full finger gloves. Let’s you touch your phone screen while your gloves are on. It was a pain to pull them off at a red light so I could change songs or something and then try to get it back on before the green. No longer have to worry about it. Now the only issue is I have short fingers so the tip of my glove finger isn’t quite the tip of my finger but I tested it out and it works!


Not bad for $10. Salesperson said they had them and used them all the time. If they start coming loose hit them with a drop of super glue.


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2001 Yamaha XVS650 Dragstar Classic and 1999 Honda NT650V Deauville
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98 Posts
Today I had a day off and took my swingarm from this


to this


to this


Also attacked the rear end of the frame, which was in a similar state to the swingarm on the inside in particular - still a bit to do


Inside and outside from engine back done in new paint
 

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2001 Yamaha XVS650 Dragstar Classic and 1999 Honda NT650V Deauville
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98 Posts
The PO had spilled brake fluid on the plastic cover in front of the tank that made the plastic white is specks


So I sanded the cover with 1200 grit paper and then spent a minute with Autosol to get a little shine back


Finally, I fitted a new rear tyre and tube. The Pirelli came buckled and dented from god knows what, but it straightened out perfectly once fitted and inflated. Forgot to take a picture fitted, but you can see it in the background in one of the pics in my previous post. The wheel bearings are super-low friction, almost like ceramic bearings - the wheel would roll for ages during balancing.
 

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I am ordering one today. I caught the CFO in a good mood...she works a half day today! Plus we both totally enjoy getting out on the bike together, so she's cool with add on stuff.

One thing....you mentioned the change did not require you to remap anything, so I am assuming I can leave all my settings the same. Sound reasonable?
You shouldn't have to cause you already have a controller with your intake mods. I still have stock intake box for now. Spring I will be getting an open air filter of some kind,probably the Barron Big Air, and have Ivan's do the ecm and I'll be able to eliminate the o2 mod.i drive about 50/50 city,highway and rarely go over 70 or use much throttle so most of the time I'm still in closed loop operation.
 

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2003 Yamaha Roadstar xv1600a
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So I didn’t do anything to the bike today but I did stop by Cycle Gear while I was out of town this week and picked up some GloveTacts for my full finger gloves. Let’s you touch your phone screen while your gloves are on. It was a pain to pull them off at a red light so I could change songs or something and then try to get it back on before the green. No longer have to worry about it. Now the only issue is I have short fingers so the tip of my glove finger isn’t quite the tip of my finger but I tested it out and it works!


Not bad for $10. Salesperson said they had them and used them all the time. If they start coming loose hit them with a drop of super glue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have a pair of Revit gloves with touch screen ability, but now no longer work😬. I will have to look into some of these GloveTacts, hope they sell them down here somewhere.👍🏼
 

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01, Roadstar 1600. /08 1700
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I have a pair of Revit gloves with touch screen ability, but now no longer work😬. I will have to look into some of these GloveTacts, hope they sell them down here somewhere.👍🏼
I have a old pair of H-D gloves that seem to work. Leather isn't usually conductive so must be the dye or just the dirt on them. I use my phone for a speedo, mine works about half the time on the old bike.
 

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2001 Yamaha XVS650 Dragstar Classic and 1999 Honda NT650V Deauville
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98 Posts
More work on the neglected XVS650 today. Removed the air intake and unplugged and re-fitted every connector on the carbs and leading to the carbs/TPS. No more fault code. Hope it last, that it was just a poor contact causing the issue. One of the clamps holding the air filter plenum chamber to the carbs had not been tightened – the PO told me he had a shop clean out the carbs a couple of years ago when it wouldn’t run properly. Air filter looked fine.

Scrubbed some grub off the faux valve covers while I had access – don’t think they have been polished since it left the factory 20 years ago. Came up decently.

Went to town with the tap and die set to freshen up every thread I’ve unveiled so far. I hate threads that have uncalled for friction. Also replaced bolts and nuts showing excess corrosion. One of the bolts for the RHS faux engine cover has a completely rusted head, going to de-rust it with POR15 and then zinc plate it. Will be hidden behind the exhaust anyway.

The rear fender has one small damage in the paint that will be fun to make invisible. Not. Pictures before cleaning.



Luckily, these four mounting points will be hidden by the chrome rails, so less critical to get a good finish.



The underside of the rear fender is 100% rust. I brushed it and smeared a stuff on that is supposed to make rust hard and solid again that I’ve had good luck with before. Pic before and after treatment.





The number plate holder looked decent apart from the odd speck of rust, but underneath the paint it was brown.


Speedo bucket also had some deep corrosion that had to be sorted.



The seal for the drive shaft going into the final drive had perished. And made a grove into the shaft.



This is one of the better angles for the condition of the shaft before. I'm always taken by surprise of how shiny the bike looks in pictures compared to real life.



After scraping rust with a blunt knife, the brush it with a brass brush before elbow grease and Autosol did the rest, it looked like this – protected with 3 layers of clear paint. You can see the damage made by the seal on the left.



Considering the neglect the bike has suffered, and the fact that it’s still rolling on its original tires, I doubt that the splines have been serviced. The grease does not look like moly to me.



Most of it was various degrees of brown, like tainted by rust. Regardless, every spline in the system looks like new. There was next to no grease at the U-joint, but plenty everywhere in the final drive.
 

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If you have more Iron rust you can use phosphoric acid on it , there is a product called Ospho, it is a phosphoric acid with other stuff in it, it turns Iron Oxide ( rust ) into Iron Phosphate which is inert and it won't allow it to rust farther and you can paint over it .
 

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2001 Yamaha XVS650 Dragstar Classic and 1999 Honda NT650V Deauville
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I can paint over this stuff as well. Brush is washed with water after use. Have not read what it contains. But rust turns blue-ish black.
 

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That is an asphalt based, it will keep new rust as it keeps air and moisture from the metal.
I think if you used the Ospho to kill the existing rust then the Carosol would be the perfect fix for inside of fenders. It will reduce the stone strike and water damage. I like the idea of that stuff on the inside of the fenders.
 

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2001 Yamaha XVS650 Dragstar Classic and 1999 Honda NT650V Deauville
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That is an asphalt based, it will keep new rust as it keeps air and moisture from the metal.
I think if you used the Ospho to kill the existing rust then the Carosol would be the perfect fix for inside of fenders. It will reduce the stone strike and water damage. I like the idea of that stuff on the inside of the fenders.
Good tip, I'll keep that for a later project, thank you! If I rode in the wet and/or on salty winter roads, I may have done more to remove the rust and protect against new corrosion. But the overall finish of the bike is so damaged, that I basically have two choices; frame-up restoration or making it look decent without spending too much time and money. I still spend way too much time, though. But if the goal a bike with a perfect finish it would be cheaper to sell mine and buy a mint one, as they are plentiful and reasonably priced.

My Classic will end up, in a week's time, as bike that will look nice from 10 feet away, but one that will not stand close up scrutiny, simply because every inch of the bike is affected by corrosion, scratches, dents and flaking to some degree. But not so bad that it will stand out by a casual glance.
 

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Today I had a day off and took my swingarm from this


to this


to this


Also attacked the rear end of the frame, which was in a similar state to the swingarm on the inside in particular - still a bit to do


Inside and outside from engine back done in new paint
Are there any pictures/photos? If yes, why can't see them?
 

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2001 Yamaha XVS650 Dragstar Classic and 1999 Honda NT650V Deauville
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I see the photos in your quote as well - I have no clue why you do not see them. Are others having issues as well?
 
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