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'18 SVTC
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106 Posts
Installed some Tab Performance exhaust with the 2.5" baffles. Wow did this wake the bike up. Highly recommend


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When you say "wake the bike up", do you mean as improve performance or wake the neighbors from a sound sleep? I've thought about adding those, but I've gotten quite used to the factory exhaust sound and kind of enjoy the relative peace and quiet. :)
 

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Star Eluder
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270 Posts
When you say "wake the bike up", do you mean as improve performance or wake the neighbors from a sound sleep? I've thought about adding those, but I've gotten quite used to the factory exhaust sound and kind of enjoy the relative peace and quiet. :)
Both. I now stay bellow 2000 rpm on my way to work to keep the neighbors off my ass.
With the headset in my full face helmet I had a hard time hearing the stock exhaust so it's nice to be able hear rather than feel if it running. Seat ot the pants dino says it seems to get up and rev faster.

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2009 V-Star 1300 tourer
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33 Posts
Since I picked up the bike in March I have done the following things…

rstd bars
Avon air cushion grips
Adjusted and torqued things to spec
Phone charger
Led lights
Cobra 2into 1 exhaust
Mustang seat
New rear tire
Oil change
Batwing fairing
Kenwood receiver 4 Rockford fosgate 5.25’s
And today I installed progressive springs in the front. I think I am
Done for the season but only time will tell.
 
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2001 Yamaha XVS650 Dragstar Classic in black
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1,314 Posts
Refitted the stock handlebars since the scrambler style bars was not the success I hoped for.

Also cut off the heel portion of the shifter - I really want to be able to move my foot back until just my toes rest on the floorboard. Besides, after using the heel shifter initially, I soon grew tired of it and have used only the toe portion since. I left more than needed of the rearward piece because I thought it may help balance the toe shifter and cause less rattling. Could be wrong. Just gently chamfered the edged and corners of the cut to prevent, eh, cuts.


The manual says I should be able to adjust the throttle cable down at the carbs. Perhaps I can, but I cannot understand how. There is the hollow bolt that holds the cable and one locking nut. Any other throttle cable I can remember have two locking nuts, allowing you to adjust and lock the cable where you want.

Since I was already at the limit of the upper adjuster without fully getting rid of all slack, I made a quick and shoddy aluminium spacer, open in one end so I could slide it on without having to remove anything. After slackening off the nut, of course. This gave me 5mm less play, enough to get the throttle play next to zero with still a little to go. The spacer is just about dead center in the picture below.



Also mocked up a temporary clutch lever tensioner in order to be able to add in some slack (mentioned elsewhere as well). I used a 6mm fuel hose together with an additional spring I once removed from a damaged brake master cylinder. If I like the effect I will buy a full length spring from a hardware store.
 

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Super Moderator "Loose Nut" - Houston, Texas
2001 Vstar 1100 Classic (sold), 2006 HD Electra Glide Ultra Classic
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11,399 Posts
Nice work. Make sure and give us an update after some riding time on the changes. Isn't making it "your" ride fun.
 
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2,034 Posts
Just ordered replacement "driving lights". One is burnt out. Which means the other will follow soon as I replace the other. So both are getting replaced.

Ride smart. Ride often!
 
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