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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What is the best grade of oil for my bike I have a v star 1100 just bought it and want to change the oil I live in southwest nova scotia the temp is so low to mid 20's on summer day should I be using a 2o/50 Castrol conventional or a amzol 10/40 synthetic motorcycle blend on both of course also what is the oil filter for the relocation can't seam to find out the filter number
Thanks deano
 

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First question - what does the Owners Manual recommend? Second question - at the temperatures you are likely to encounter, why would you want to go with a 20W-50 oil? Now, if it were me, I'd go for Shell Rotella 5W-40 synthetic, even though no Owner's Manual I have seen recommends that grade. I think that is because 5W-40 will allow starts at temperatures lower than any sane person is likely to use a motorcycle.
 

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Without question, do not use anything more heavy then a 15/40 for riding in temps below 50F degrees.
When you say low to mid 20s during the day, i assume you are talking about celsius, which would mean 68 to 77F.
I would choose 10/40 or 15/40 if you ride 45f and higher, what does your manual say?
What year 1100?
 

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My young friend, looks like you just signed on and started posting w/o reading the "oil and lube" part of this forum, huh? Your question ALWAYS causes a firestorm. "What's the best?" Each rider has the "best" cause that works for them, and they like it:)

Use what you are happy with, from the buck 69 discount bargain bin stuff right on up to the big buck (Amsoil?:rolleyes:) there ain't a dimes worth of difference:D Keep clean oil and fresh filters in on sch, you will be fine, main thing: Have fun, enjoy your ride:D
 

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My young friend, looks like you just signed on and started posting w/o reading the "oil and lube" part of this forum, huh? Your question ALWAYS causes a firestorm. "What's the best?" Each rider has the "best" cause that works for them, and they like it:)

Use what you are happy with, from the buck 69 discount bargain bin stuff right on up to the big buck (Amsoil?:rolleyes:) there ain't a dimes worth of difference:D Keep clean oil and fresh filters in on sch, you will be fine, main thing: Have fun, enjoy your ride:D
+1 on this. In all the discussions I've read on oil on this forum and others related to ATVs, tractors, heavy equipment, boats etc , I have yet to see any empirical evidence that says one brand or grade of oil caused consistent failures. Of course the weight and type must meet or exceed the application requirements. Follow what your manual says on weight of oil for your temperature range.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have read but there is no answer like use the type and grade well that ok I would like to know what the oil filter is that is connected to the relocation set up no numbers or nothing
 

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I would like to know what the oil filter is that is connected to the relocation set up no numbers or nothing
deano my friend, I really don't know what you want:confused:( No numbers or nothing) OK, the oil filter is a cylindrical object that screws onto your ork unit to filter your oil. Now the Bear don't figger that is what you want, so here is some numbers, I use an EMGO 10-82220 in crome, the boys tell me K&N 303 is good too, I'm sure there are many:)

Hope this helps you a bit:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok Bear I know what the oil filter is what I'm looking for is the filter part number for the relocation kit the 303 is not the one it is way to small the Yamaha dealer couldn't tell what number it was so I just took the kit off it and put the oem back in it a lot more work to change the oil and filter but oh well
 

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Ok Bear I know what the oil filter is what I'm looking for is the filter part number for the relocation kit the 303 is not the one it is way to small the Yamaha dealer couldn't tell what number it was so I just took the kit off it and put the oem back in it a lot more work to change the oil and filter but oh well
OK, cents we are just havin fun here, I gotta ask: Just what ork unit do you have/had?? (BRAND) Seems strange even the Yammer folks don't got a clue, huh?:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Bear I know it was all in fun but I don't know what make/brand no name or makings on it what so ever
 

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Picking the correct oil

My wife's uncle worked his whole career for a company that manufactures additives for the oil industry. His advice is to pick an oil that exceeds the vehicles manufacturers requirements and change the oil often. Today the oils are all good.

For me, my XVS1100 Vstar manual recommends 10W-30 or 20W-40 SE, SF or SG grade oil. I pick the best oil for air cooled engines which, I feel, is a 10-30 API Service SN. 10-30 because most damage to your engine comes when starting so I want a medium weight oil getting to the upper cylinders as soon as possible and circulating fast when warm. SN way exceeds SG (besides you can't find SF or SG anymore). Once I have determined the weight and the grade I want then there are lots of oil brands to pick from at many prices. I change the oil sooner than the 3000 mile limit to keep fresh oil pumping through the engine. I do not use synthetic because over the years I have found changing the oil often provides great lubrication, so, why change? Know what you want and how to use it then look for sales.

WARNING The reason the manual does not recommend a 5 weight oil is because your clutch is bathed in the same oil as your engine. Your clutch will slip in 5 weight oil. DO NOT ADD ZINC since it decreases friction. A decrease in friction is good for engines but very bad for your clutch.
I had an O'Reilly guy tell me that O'Reilly oil is actually Castrol, Anybody know if that is true?

ADVICE: Change your oil more often than the manufacturer recommends
 

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SN oil is not better for motorcycles engines. SN was mandated to reduce anti wear agents and cleaners from the oil as Washington DC wishes to make catalytic converters in cars last longer.
They are hoping to increase converter life by another 30% so the standards for SN oil came out.
Not better for your engine, better for your converter.
You will notice the prime motorcycle oils from Mobile, Valvoline, Amsoil, Red Line, anyone! Will not be SN rated and its for a good reason.
Chances are you will never know the difference as most of us do not keep bikes long enough to see it. However a 10/30 SN might be loaded with moly and better be careful about that.
 

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Thank you, I did not know that, I really do appreciate your post. With that in mind this is what the American Petrolium Institute has to say about SN service rating:
GASOLINE ENGINES (Follow your vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations on oil performance levels)
Category Status Service
SN Current Introduced in October 2010, designed to provide improved high temperature deposit protection for pistons, more stringent sludge control, and seal compatibility. API SN with Resource Conserving matches ILSAC GF-5 by combining API SN performance with improved fuel economy, turbocharger protection, emission control system compatibility, and protection of engines operating on ethanol-containing fuels up to E85.

To me that says more detergent to reduce carbon sludge build up, BUT not quite, it meant the oil is formulated to please the rare metals in the cat and oxygen sensors downstream from the catalytic converter, reduce sludge and reduce oil thickening.
I noticed Royal Purple has a SN service rating as does all the car oils at my local O' vendor. The Motorcycle oils have an older (but not obsolete) SL rating, none I could find have a SN rating.

Interesting reading: http://www.api.org/~/media/files/ce...iesel/publications/mom_guide_english_2013.pdf

Amsoil explains the W and what oil to reduce engine wear:
What does a 5W-30 do that an SAE 30 won't?
When you see a W on a viscosity rating it means that this oil viscosity has been tested at a Colder temperature. The numbers without the W are all tested at 210° F or 100° C which is considered an approximation of engine operating temperature. In other words, a SAE 30 motor oil is the same viscosity as a 10w-30 or 5W-30 at 210° (100° C). The difference is when the viscosity is tested at a much colder temperature. For example, a 5W-30 motor oil performs like a SAE 5 motor oil would perform at the cold temperature specified, but still has the SAE 30 viscosity at 210° F (100° C) which is engine operating temperature. This allows the engine to get quick oil flow when it is started cold verses dry running until lubricant either warms up sufficiently or is finally forced through the engine oil system. The advantages of a low W viscosity number is obvious. The quicker the oil flows cold, the less dry running. Less dry running means much less engine wear.
See: http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/ Amsoil rates their motorcycle synthetic oil SG or SL.
A great article on why to change your oil is http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/why-change-oil-regularly.php
 

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My wife's uncle worked his whole career for a company that manufactures additives for the oil industry. His advice is to pick an oil that exceeds the vehicles manufacturers requirements and change the oil often. Today the oils are all good.

For me, my XVS1100 Vstar manual recommends 10W-30 or 20W-40 SE, SF or SG grade oil. I pick the best oil for air cooled engines which, I feel, is a 10-30 API Service SN. 10-30 because most damage to your engine comes when starting so I want a medium weight oil getting to the upper cylinders as soon as possible and circulating fast when warm. SN way exceeds SG (besides you can't find SF or SG anymore). Once I have determined the weight and the grade I want then there are lots of oil brands to pick from at many prices. I change the oil sooner than the 3000 mile limit to keep fresh oil pumping through the engine. I do not use synthetic because over the years I have found changing the oil often provides great lubrication, so, why change? Know what you want and how to use it then look for sales.

WARNING The reason the manual does not recommend a 5 weight oil is because your clutch is bathed in the same oil as your engine. Your clutch will slip in 5 weight oil. DO NOT ADD ZINC since it decreases friction. A decrease in friction is good for engines but very bad for your clutch.
I had an O'Reilly guy tell me that O'Reilly oil is actually Castrol, Anybody know if that is true?

ADVICE: Change your oil more often than the manufacturer recommends
A) I 100% agree with the advice. Changing oil frequently is the cheapest insurance you'll ever buy.

B) I also agree that the vast majority of modern oils "make the grade" compared to days gone by.

C) Well stated about avoiding 5w and "friction enhanced" oils. These aren't cars, and engine, tranny and clutch all share the same oil... It's different.

D) I run Mobil1 15/50 synthetic in mine. I don't worry overmuch about the startup viscosity because 1) I don't ride the bike in cold weather, just start and let it warm up every week or two and 2) I've done enough work on it (e.g. valve clearance adjustment) during cool weather and after a few days sitting to feel comfy that the upper end is well-loaded with oil anyhow. Yes, if you let it sit for weeks and weeks during the winter, you could have a 'dry' top end and have to worry about startup lubrication... But I don't do that. Try letting it sit for a few days in cool weather and pull those valve covers off - believe me that you'll find plenty of residual oil all up in there.

So for my normal habit - ride it nearly every day in the warm weather and run it up to temp at least weekly in cold - it's not something that concerns me.
 

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It's not necessarily better to change oil more frequently than necessary. Engine wear decreases as the oil ages. It's a good argument for long life oils, but factors other than time in motor can cause the oil to reach end of life. As long as an oil hasn't reached end of life, there's no reason to remove it. Determining end of life can be tricky. Blackstone testing (again, not to be overdone) can help determine appropriate intervals that can save you money and wear in the long run. For the average person, the manufacturers recommendation is more than adequate and can usually be easily extended. Flame on.
 

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Motul 5100 Ester 4T 10W40. I been using this oil on my 1300 for the last 3-4 years now and no issues. I keep reading about noisy engines in other posts but the Star bike engines in general are made that way. No oil will solve those ticking noise issues. Im actually used to it by now and my exhaust drowns out the ticking noise. Only time i hear it is when I'm stopped at light or stop sign.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Some people in the United States arent aware that your 20C is our 70F. So you ride summertime with daily highs of 70 to 80 degrees F.
Any 10/40 motorcycle oil is fine. Valvoline in the US is well priced at $4 to $5 a quart.
Also Rotella 15/40 another good choice. Honestly in your moderately cool climate I would use a 10/40 or maybe 15/40 summer, 10/40 off summer. More or less change two times a year.
 

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First question - what does the Owners Manual recommend? Second question - at the temperatures you are likely to encounter, why would you want to go with a 20W-50 oil? Now, if it were me, I'd go for Shell Rotella 5W-40 synthetic, even though no Owner's Manual I have seen recommends that grade. I think that is because 5W-40 will allow starts at temperatures lower than any sane person is likely to use a motorcycle.
Yes **I have used and spoken to lots of people with twins, the t6 Rotella 5-40 has the full motorcycle Jaso wet clutch ratings on it,- and as a bonus works in some small diesels too..👍
 
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