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why do a pod kit if this is true?

5.8K views 31 replies 11 participants last post by  Pancake81  
#1 ·
#4 ·
It must be a google issue right now. Just google:
Vstar 1100 WIKI
It comes right up.
 
#6 ·
It’s doing it for me also, kinda weird. Your signature link is doing the same. This is what I get.

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#9 ·
Same thing.
 
#13 ·
Okay. I just did the pod mod, to eliminate a hypercharger. And now you're telling me it's worse? Guess I'm going to have to return to stock
 
#14 ·
Pods and exhaust is by far the best bolt on performance enhancement you can do. Check out these documented dyno numbers. Going from the stock 50 hp to over 60 hp with pods and exhaust is going to be a 12 percent increase.

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#19 ·
Back in the day, pods used to cause all kinds of jetting problems on carbureted bikes, due to the unstable airflow of not having an airbox. A stiff crosswind could cause the bike to go extremely lean and bog out. They were nothing but trouble in the shop, and I always steered clear and got my customers to, too for that reason. You could spend hours jetting one, and it would only move the problem to another throttle position, load, or RPM.

That said, I'm not sure how that would play out with FI - I'd assume the same since airflow would be affected (You still need the correct amount of air regardless of how the fuel gets into the combustion chamber), but on these bikes the throttle bodies are tucked up and away rather than sticking straight out the back between your legs on the old transverse 4's ... so maybe that won't be as much of a problem as it used to be. They'll give you more power, but it'll be on the top end due to resonance. That plays a HUGE role in power output, much like an expansion chamber pipe on a 2-stroke, but much less dramatically. Sound waves can actually stop exhaust flow for milliseconds after the exhaust valve has already opened, or pull it out strongly which pulls in more fuel mixture. Lots of science to it that I can't explain fully.

If I wanted to gain some power, I'd do an aftermarket exhaust, airbox mod if possible, camshaft, and a dyno tune. Way more bang for your buck. Pods run the risk of increasing power at the expense of keeping dirt out of your expensive engine ... just like a K&N filter.

And the way the supply chain is right now, I'd wager you'd be waiting for new parts from Japan for MONTHS at this point ... Don't even get me started on that. We're governed by a bunch of complete MORONS. :mad:
 
#22 ·
I've been revving the crap out of it and its a lot more fun when i get used to a higher rev range. Im looking into oil cooling to deal with it.
Im mostly just against using those rubber boots again.
heres another thing though, the wind should be pretty stable underneath the gas tank. Doing the dragons breath style is whats giving me issues. Its super cool to look at though im probably keeping it.
 
#24 ·
Update, after playing around with positioning and replacing the fuel pump the bike eats highway like its nothing and ive lost the low end, but thats okay i can just rev higher.
I have power through the whole range, the bime sounds the healthiest its ever been.

Im running into cooling issues now though so an oil cooler is in the works this next coming weekend. I dont need it actually, at all, but if i want to rip around the highway like i have been in the texas summer then that oil cooler will help quite a bit.
 
#26 ·
Basically if you do two pods its harder for your carb to make a vacuum. BUT if you play around with the airflow for a day or two then your vacuum comes back and everything is cool. Im making some "grill vent" looking things for the ram air to see if that helps. That way I can move them easily. I'm going to drill holes and put a screw and bolt in to hold it wherever it works best. It will all be made of aluminum sheet metal scrap from my school, so. I can make it as tight as I want with whatever clearences 2080 will let me put it to.
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#28 ·
i did pods a few years ago and have 20 pilots, the guys who put the wkb together did some dyno testing and got better results with 17.5. might have something to do with bottom end. in the beginning 22s were used but were to rich in town i dropped to 20 and stayed.
 
#29 ·
I went with the SSCustom Cycle Chubby air pod
Kit in my 1100. It combined with a full aftermarket exhaust and the correct jets/tune in the carbs along with being synced correctly and the bike is night and day vs. stock. I also have a Dynatek 3k set to timing curve 4 and 7k rpm redline. Plenty enough low end torque to spin the back tire off the line and pull up into the 120’s on command. Before that I had to be on it for ever to get up there and at 80-85 on the toll way my 1100 was out of legs. Pods are by far the best performance part for the money. The stock air system is highly restrictive. Any intake that uses the factory air box and squished intake tube is going to hold you back on performance capability.
 
#32 ·
The pods are the air filter.

So basically as you bike sits now it has a large air box with a filter in it, and the the “dog dish” (as they call it) for the air intake (into the air intake box).

the pods eliminate the dog dish, the stock air filter and the air box. Basically you replace all this t having two k&n style pod filters under your tank eliminating all the stock airbox set up.

Personally I found a barons big air kit new in box for peanuts so went that route. I am super happy with it, aesthetically too, and pods at the time were kind of controversial. As you see in this thread. Basically people said the ass dyno made it feel like a ton more hp, but in reality your low end was bogging and then it came alive in the mid range.

Never tried one first hand, and the topic is still somewhat divided (although I think more supporters of pods, than people disputing).

On the plus side it is not an expensive mod.