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2010 Stratoliner Deluxe....

Ok ...what are the home mechanics doing to get those two 17mm oil drain bolts out of the engine bottom?...i mean, a socket won't fit (not enough depth clearance)...and even having the bike up on the lift, it is so f**k'n hard ot get thre wrench to loosen them....help !

papa d
 

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Without a lift I understand the problem. With it up on a lift I don't see how you might have such a tough time. I just use a standard length 17mm box wrench. I start to loosen it by getting the opposite end of the wrench pointing at about the 7:00 or 8:00 position then with some hand pressure on the wrench, tap the end of the wrench with a lixie hammer. Wicked easy!
 

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Make 2 x 10 ramps

:mad:

2010 Stratoliner Deluxe....

Ok ...what are the home mechanics doing to get those two 17mm oil drain bolts out of the engine bottom?...i mean, a socket won't fit (not enough depth clearance)...and even having the bike up on the lift, it is so f**k'n hard ot get thre wrench to loosen them....help !

papa d
I bought a lift. it was great for tire changes but a pain for changing oil . it seemed one of the forks were under a bolt no matter what. i ended up making some 2 x 10 ramps. i just cut a 2 x 10 board so it had a gentle ramp angle on two of the boards and the third goes under the side stand. the bike is now high enough to get at all the bolts with a box end wrench and you can fit a standard drain pan under the bike with no intererance from anything. screw a 2 x 4 to the end of the 2x10 so it will stop you if you drive to far.
 

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Drains

I mostly do as The Brain. I lay three 2 x 10's on the floor and ride up on top. One under each wheel and one for the kickstand. That gives me an extra inch and half to turn the wrench.

I have seen some buy some stubby wrenches at sears.

Dave
 

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Without a lift I understand the problem. With it up on a lift I don't see how you might have such a tough time. I just use a standard length 17mm box wrench.

+1

I bought a table jack from JC Whitney ($125). You can get the bike chassis up far enough to use a standard 17mm box end without even having to life the wheels off the ground.

Don't forget to replace the crush washers on the reservoir and crankcase drains every so often.;)

As others have pointed out, using almost any kind of lift or jack will require at least one reposition during the drain evolution. If you resign yourself to that, then the oil change will simply be a PITA instead of an alcoholic binge occasion...(although...there's something to be said for that...:))


Nonetheless, I have often and fervently wished the engineers who designed the drain system would contract the most vicious STD on the planet:mad:
 

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I did it in my driveway with nothing lifting the bike. I used a stubby 17mm wrench and a regular one. When I couldn't crank on one of them hard enough I tapped it with a rubber mallet. It was pretty easy.
 

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I am due for my first oil change since buying the bike....looked things over, and I am going to put the bike in gear with the handlebars turned to the left, and lean the bike against the garage wall on the throttle side with a slight lean to the right. Which will give me plenty of room to remove the drain bolts on the left side of the crankcase, and drain most of the oil. Put the bike back on the sidestand, remove the drain plug for the oil tank, and let everything drain. Virtually all of the oil will drain with the bike being leaned each direction, re-installl the drain plugs, fill it with oil, check the level, and ride.

It is a rather simple procedure and not as complicated as it appears.

That is the plan for me at this time.
 

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Shorty wrench

From local hardware store, large flat like a cake pan form somewhere other than the wifes kitchen. Empty the tank the empty the pan or empty the two front and empty the pan. That gallon of oil out of the tank and the two front drains fills a flat pan to the brim. I did mine on a lift the first time, then got a shorty wrench and just did it off the floor, I like the 2x10s idea
 

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2x6's under tires and kickstand,stubby 17mm wrench,warm garage and cold beer priceless.
 

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grind the edge of box end wrench... Too make it a thin wall. Like the harbor freight wrenches not much cost on those... no one steals them either.
 

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Take your 17mm stubby and grind part of the outside of the box end off to make it a thinner wall wrench. Worked good for me. As far as a lift, I use a craftsman lift. You just have to position the lift so you can get to the drain bolts. I use an old cake pan and a small plastic tub to get the job done. Just got to be creative I guess. You can also get some useful tips from the Yamaha Roadstar Raider Forum site as well. Hope this helps. 08 Raider S and 10 Statoliner Deluxe owner.
 

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I just completed my first oil change on the Stratoliner today and it wasn't too bad.........took the advice of one of the posters and rolled the bike up on three pieces of 2x10. I did have to use one of my thinner wall 17mm box ends (a thirty year old Craftsman wrench) to remove the front left oil drain plug. I tapped the wrench with a dead blow plastic hammer to break the side drain bolts and then just snugged them with my super accurate right hand to a guestimated 25 ft lbs. Filled with 2.5 qts, then a quick start up/couple of revs, and topped off with another 2.6 qts of oil. BTW, I used a Bosch 3300 oil filter and it fits perfectly.

I'll ride it tomorrow and check the oil level on the dipstick.
 

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With 5.0 quarts? I coulda sworn it took 6 when I did it, but maybe I was too concerned with jack placement and whatnot to remember exactly how much oil it took... Mine's right at the top of the dipstick when I check it with the bike level.
 
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