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High revs - CDI ? or TPS? or who knows what

2.7K views 21 replies 4 participants last post by  Axeman88  
#1 ·
Hi guys,
i checked many many topics, but still not fully sure on how to fix the issue.
  • Originally the first symptom was that my speedometer and odometer were not working.
  • i got a lot of backfires (didnt recognise it might be related)
  • the speedsensor was disconnected by the previous owner (claims it was not him)
  • i connected it and it started working for like 2-3km, then died again.
  • followed the manual - checked the Vcc and it is constant 5V, no matter how i rotate the rear wheel.
  • all wires checked, seems fine
  • fuze fine
  • the display blinks and flashes, so i assume it is also fine
After i connected the speedsensor again suddenly NEW SYMTOMPS appeared:
  • when i move and hold the clutch the REVS go insane high.
  • if i go to full stop, the revs go to normal in a bit.
  • if i push by foot on Neutral, the REVS go high as well.(aka if rear wheel is on stand)
  • the speedometer/odometer works occasionally. no clue when/how.
I ordered a new(2nd hand) sensor, replaced it, which solved the problem with the odometer, but the other symptoms are still fine. Thins make me think it is the CDI. I was planning to buy Dynatek3000 as it is much cheaper the original CDI, still i am a bit hesitant. As what i recently read it could be the TPS. Any one can explain what is the logic? Also can anyone share a link, how to test this TPS. TBH the only other bike i have owned was Suzuki savage, so this XVS is a black box to me

Cheers
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
the speedometer i fixed by replacing the sensor. So i still think the issue is either the CDI or the TPS. If i disconect the sensor there is no issue with high revs, so unfortunately i think it might be the CDI, but it will be cheaper to test the TPS first. At least this is my logic, but as i said i would identiy more as a monkey with wrench :D
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Yes, i read it already, but there it says "adjust RPM to exactly 1000" and i dont understand whether the engine should be running while i measure with the multimeter.
Actually do you think in general, having in mind the symptoms from the first post, that it is possible to be the TPS?
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
I'm not positive on this, but I think that they tell you to adjust the idle speed first, because idle speed adjustment mechanically affects the "throttle closed" position. Idle speed needs to be set with engine fully warmed up.

With that "throttle closed" = idle speed position set, you then check/ adjust the TPS with the engine NOT running. You will be measuring the resistance of the variable resistor attached to the butterfly in the carb.

Do you know what mechanism the engine control system has to vary the engine rpms? It's a carburetor right, not EFI? To vary engine rpms in a substantial way, I would think some sort of solenoid or actuator would be required.

I'm surprised nobody has discussed the speed sensor check or discussed how the speed sensor works. Based on what you said about the engine racing or not racing under various conditions, It sounds to me like a speed sensor, or other electrical, issue. Are there any other electrical components that are malfunctioning in any way?

I just started learning about the VStar's engine control system. I'll try to read more about how the system works before I make too many uneducated comments that I'll have to take back later.
Thanks for the info. Will try to do as mentioned.
About the Speedsensor - i think it is fine. The original one was not giving correct signals = odometer/speedometer was not working. Then i bought one from ebay which started showing proper data on the odo/speedometer. So i assume it is fine. This speedsensor is connected to the CDI, so the next culprit is the CDI, but as i mentioned - was planning to order Dynatek 3000 but before that i wanted to scratch out the other options
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
The issue is not present when the speed sensor is disconected. So it is related. My assumption is that the previous owner tried to revert odometer (to look like less KM). which he fucked the sensor. As the only other thing connected to the sensor is the CDI, i assume this might be fuckedup as well. This is my assumption. Actually there were a few topics here stating similar issues
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
I have multimeter. i assume i can check the resistence. All this what Axeman88 writes makes sense, but i still dont get why the problem is not present when the sensor is attached. To me still all point out to the CDI box
 
Discussion starter · #21 ·
Will try to explain better.
Scenario1 - Old sensor disconected:
  • backfires present.
  • rpms fine
  • odometer/speedometer logically not working

Scenario2 - Sensor connected:
  • NO backfires
  • RPMS go very high when back wheel moves (sensor is counting this movement)
-odometer works fine